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It's very interesting how you know what I must have done or not done. To answer your questions, NO, I had not removed any of the nuts prior to the wheel swap and yes I did torque to the proper specs after using the M18.
Why are you so condescending, you are not the only mechanic on this site...
I beg to differ, I removed all 10 9.00 X 20's and installed 10 G177's with the M18, it's badass! I won't drive my deuce without it.
However; I haul my torque multiplier too.
Pardon my question here, I as well won a M105A2 yesterday in Texarkana, does working brakes mean that I cannot bring this trailer home with my Tahoe? I already got the pintle for it, but obviously no air.
I just ordered from Amazon this week, haven't received yet.
IPCW CWC-7006 7" Plain Round Conversion Headlight $14.39 ea.
HELLA HLA-H83140041 H4 24V 100/90W Halogen Bulb $7.22 ea.
Dorman 84790 Headlight Socket $8.91 ea.
If the 100/90's are too bright I'll just reduce the wattage as they're...
Thanks for the compliment and no, I didn't do anything except take it out of the box it was in, after 11 months of ownership. I guess I hadn't realized it was different, I'm still quite new to all this.
That's great specific information, thank you very much. I'll start looking around for the original registration/hood number.
Presently, the engine nameplate indicates a manufacture date of 3-85, the title I have says 1970 Kaiser and the data plate in the cockpit says M35A2 W/W manufacture...
To be honest, I'm really not sure. I've been told that with my frame number and dash it was originally gas, I just don't know for sure and the data plate is definitely not original.
Finally scored some bows/staves to put my cover on, replaced my last wooden bench with a fiberglass one, installed a new light switch, new air horn and painted my bridge plate school bus yellow . She was a hit at the 4th of July parade :-)