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Not sure but could be with some combination of the cruise control stuff. When the trans is in neutral you can control idle speed in small increments with the cruise control accelerate and decelerate buttons.

Have him enable your cruise control. It takes 2 minutes.

Incidentally - I asked a fellow Motorpool veteran of 25 years and he laughed at me and said in all his time he has NEVER run into that problem...... :poop: I've had my actuator rods pop out on a couple of occasions. I fix them at the earliest opportunity. I carry spare rod clips.

I like where this is going. While you're cutting holes you might as well plasma a hole through the floor pan and just attach an abrasive blast cabinet glove to it so you can reach into the glove and operate the inner door handle without having a drafty hole in your cab.

Works in the movies. Probably would result in more damage to the shooter and the shotgun than the truck or just dented sheet metal and broken glass if you were far enough to avoid injury. Better off with one of those pneumatic captive bolt guns they use on cattle.

Put down the die grinder chief! We don't need to be deconstructing the truck with the sawzall of life. This isn't a maximum security prison! I think some "field expediency" and some "greybeard ingenuity" might get us over this hurdle.

Us greybeards have to stick together. I'll forget something don't you worry. 😅

Remove the turret cap? :shrugs: Probably leaks and could use re-sealing anyway. They typically come off with just your fingers and a pocket knife once the bolts are removed. No longer and option for me with the HIMARS hatch..... probably should come up with an alternative. Raise cab and push...

There are plusses to finding an A1R "van" if you can. Either the M1079 A1R or the M1087 A1R. Having a ready to go habitat that is mil-spec and already has the torsion frame covered WILL be money and time ahead if it suits your needs. Again this increases the up-front price but when you consider...

Price isn't bad *if that's what you want* - an A0 truck. I imagine they mean "Stainless Steel" on the paddle handles. I'm sure the stock handles broke from corrosion, disuse, and being forced. I would HIGHLY recommend you look at an A1 or an A1R. Quite a few people have built overland rigs...

It's on sheet 20 of the A1/A1R schematic in the PDF. P250 is for one of the two the J1939 databus termination resistors. If you want the simplified diagrams for each subsystem you have to dig into the electronic manuals. And sometimes they make you work for it. They are an acquired skill to...

Yup. The one's on my 2008 were in terrible shape.

U-joints are needle bearings. I don't know about moly grease damaging the bearings. I wouldn't consider using it for that application (it's a specialty grease - not a generic bearing grease) and I haven't done enough research or tried it personally to know. In the automotive world it's used in...

Those trucks are reportedly FMTV contract demonstration trucks. Basically prototype trucks from a manufacturer (I didn't read which one) that was not ultimately awarded the manufacturing contract. Note this is an older model with Michelin tires and door mounted markers. Likely a truck that was...

Moly is for extreme pressure - metal to metal sliding contact type of applications and might not be the best choice for u-joints. U-joints are not a sliding contact type of application like a constant velocity joint. If it flings it out of the u-joints then it's probably too thin also. I would...

The A1 trucks also have the exhaust brake. I don't think pad life was the concern. The military would rather have stopping power - they have enough problems with accidents to worry about brake pad life.

I use Amsoil waterproof grease. The Army uses GAA (Grease, Automotive and Artillery). It's really more important that things are greased frequently and less important what brand you use. The waterproof Amsoil stays in place really well in my experience - resists washing out if you do any amount...

I would highly recommend replacing them all. I can't tell from the TM which line is which, but the two lines to the tank - one is 72" and one is 123" according to the NIIN characteristics. Are you wanting the forward most line or the rearward most line? The forward line is 123" and the...

I didn't really notice that.... not sure by what mechanism that would be the case. You sure you're not just getting used to how much effort it takes? I know that I certainly did over the last several years. At any rate the A0/A1 pedal valve assembly takes a fraction of the pedal effort. You...

I can only subjectively tell you it's an absolute game changing difference. I can add that I own a performance shop with a chassis dyno so I'm not unfamiliar with exceptionally good brakes. The Saturday dyno rental today was an Infinity Q50 that made 715 rear wheel HP. Trust me you want this.