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Search results

  1. G

    Cold starting A1R

    Very typical. But these start WAY better than the HMMWV's - check out same guy's video on that mess: And if the glow plugs don't work (blown up from repeatedly cycling when someone left the switch on or controller failed - common) good luck. You might as well wait till summer comes.
  2. G

    Cold starting A1R

    It has to cope with an empty bottle so I wouldn't worry about it. Ether is just an alternate fuel source and the black smoke means it's got plenty of fuel - I wouldn't worry about it. There's no way to change the operating parameters that I'm aware of in software since having the grid heater...
  3. G

    Cold starting A1R

    If you would rather you could use something like this to control the grid heater and disconnect or manually control the ether: https://www.swaphelper.com/product-page/swaphelper-com-grid-heater-controller
  4. G

    CTIS pressure settings increase - no programming, transducer, or module required.

    All of the CTIS boxes are 24 VDC - indeed the M939 has only 24 VDC systems so I'm not sure what SUPPLIER 16V is in reference to exactly. Nothing important I would say. I have the software on my google drive because no one can seem to find the Dana download for it anymore. It's only 8 Mb...
  5. G

    Seems like transmission is slipping when cold

    Check the filters? Perhaps the fluid is too thick when cold and not flowing through clogged, collapsed, or damaged filter elements? I would get the 15w40 out of it and put in Dexron ATF. The military stopped using 15w40 in the FMTV's and the ATF shifts better.
  6. G

    M1088a1 Camper Build!

    Yeah doesn't look like there's any habitat suspension or articulation capability. Looks like any off-road would destroy the house in short order. Aux cooler would be better between the frame rails with fans that push air into the low pressure area under the truck (ground effect).
  7. G

    M1088a1 Camper Build!

    What did you for isolation between the box and frame? With the frame that long there's going to be some flex and you don't want to destroy the box.
  8. G

    Power steering fluid filter...

    It's pretty much the same as the power steering - suck all the fluid out of the pump, refill with proper fluid, exercise all parts of the system as much as you can and then rinse repeat till you have changed what you figure to be about 1/2 the capacity 4 times over, or about 2/3 of the capacity...
  9. G

    Power steering fluid filter...

    It's not that bad...... System only takes about three quarts so this $30 gallon jug will do the job. Get two and have enough to properly flush it and some spare on hand. Republic Oil 5606 Super Clean Hydraulic Oil 1 Gallon 5606A 5606H 5606J https://a.co/d/475npWk
  10. G

    Power steering fluid filter...

    The cab lift system does not use AW32 hydraulic fluid. It uses MIL-PRF-5606H mineral oil aviation hydraulic fluid. AW32 and ATF and all the other stuff that people put in there is part of what causes the seals to fail and clog up the cylinder check valves, etc. 5606H has an ISO 15 VG - it is...
  11. G

    Power steering fluid filter...

    Jack up the front with the wheels off the ground, suck out the reservoir, refill with new fluid, and steer the wheels lock to lock a dozen times. Repeat this process two or three or however many times you like till the fluid you suck out looks like the fluid you put in. It's cheap AW32 tractor...
  12. G

    Diagnostic Readers

    That need will come up again - run a fuse panel off the 12v ignition relay under the PDP for accessories.
  13. G

    MMDC air sensors, replacement (?)

    Yet another example of MWM's turd polishing practices. They don't equip the trucks with the right parts - they equip them with what returns the most money. And the AD9 can be found all over for dirt cheap. It's new and shiny and that's all you need to lure a first time buyer. Acela is the same...
  14. G

    Removing torque rods and v-bar

    If they are anything like my steering tie rods and drag link they will pop out with a couple good smacks on the housings, etc. The TM just says "remove two self-locking nuts" and "remove torque rod" The prescribed tool list: General Mechanics Tool kit, jack, jack stands, goggles, torque...
  15. G

    Looking for M1078A1 ABS troubleshooting guide

    Ah I see. You are too light in the back. Makes sense.
  16. G

    Looking for M1078A1 ABS troubleshooting guide

    Maybe! These things have SUPERB traction due to literally tons of weight on a massive contact patch so it's pretty hard to lock up the tires. Put the tires at 90 psi for the attempt.
  17. G

    Looking for M1078A1 ABS troubleshooting guide

    If you can get the ABS to activate on anything less than ice or snow my hat's off to you sir.
  18. G

    Looking for M1078A1 ABS troubleshooting guide

    My guess is someone hooked up incorrectly or applied power to the coms port and blew those resistors. Your DC meter readings on the coms bus is showing the meters averaged interpretation of the 5v square wave. It's not going to be exactly 2.5v because the on and off times are not exactly 50/50...
  19. G

    Alternate Alternator Selection

    That part doesn't exist in the Army system. That doesn't mean it's not the same but that CAT part number has no National Stock Number cross.
  20. G

    Alternate Alternator Selection

    No a gimmick. A band-aid for a poorly sized alternator.
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