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Not sure exactly where the yellow metal is to be found in the front hubs but regardless the whole "yellow metal safe" discussion is largely irrelevant as nearly all modern GL4/GL5 dual-spec lubricants are safe in that way. Amsoil for example: https://www.amsoil.com/t/faq/ Scroll down to Gear...

Dog-house for a HMMWV is my guess.

Dow Corning Molykote 111 is as good or better. NYK77 is just Truck Lite branded dielectric grease. Dow 111 is used extensively in the aviation world for this and for o-ring lube. The four chems I keep on my truck tool box - loctite 545 (thread sealant), loctite 248 (blue threadlocker in...

There is really no compelling reason to use synthetic in the axles. It's just a waste of money. There's no combustion products to contend with and the temps are not high and are actually significantly lower with the ECO hubs making it an even less demanding application. The military doesn't use...

My 2008 had the same problem - original 2008 truck and box. I am sure the box was removed for transport at some point in it's life. My truck went to Kuwait.

If you can back-probe the ABS computer while cranking you can watch the voltage on your meter. I mean there's lots of things I would consider pulling out one of my half dozen oscilloscopes for but simple voltage drop tests I wouldn't bother. If you can't back probe the ABS controller you could...

You have enough weird electrical related foolishness going on that I would just take a whole day and clean EVERY ground point and main power electrical connection you can find. The big ones that come to mind: Battery terminals. Battery box ground. All the connections inside the disconnect box...

Resistance tests rarely tell you there's a bad connection because the meter is using it's own voltage and tiny current to test the resistance. At those small voltages and currents the poor connection will probably seem fine. 0.2 Ohms could just as easily be the zero on your meter. You must check...

The starter is cabled directly to the batteries. The ABS computer gets it's power from the PDP which is on the other side of the LBCD, the power distribution studs under the PDP, through CB's and then gets it's ground through the cab which is cabled to the chassis. It was also the case with the...

The ABS computer seems to be especially sensitive to low voltage conditions. And as @Lostchain pointed out the manual does indicate that many fault codes require an ignition power cycle to clear - so you may not be able to clear the code since it will return after the ignition cycle. Sounds to...

There appears to be a burnt PDP circuit board trace in the vicinity of CB77 as well.

Correct. I was referring to @GCecchetto's post for his A1R. Totally different gauge system. Same concerns about the 3126b oil pumps though. Same issues with the 3126b and the older C7's. CAT redesigned the pumps a couple times. And our application exposes that issue much sooner than say a...

Those look the correct shape - the ones I used were 3/32" (0.095") thickness and the diagram calls for 2 per handle (4 per truck). There's a spacer plate between the two gaskets that you can salvage. There's a lot of flex to the door panel and a lot of crush to the gaskets. I needed to go back...

The gauge itself is CANBUS to the MMDC so a low reading is not likely to be a connection issue since the signal is digital. I had nothing but problems with the pressure sensors and connectors so I replaced the engine wiring harness and in the process also found an injector wire rubbed through...

It is normally off but it has weird behavior after clearing codes. I've experienced clearing codes and then the ABS light still not going out till you drive a few MPH then it goes out. I recall having to play with it after fixing a dirty wheel speed sensor and it wasn't straightforward how to...

Does the software say the light is on? Do the wheel speeds read correctly while driving? I have noticed that you have to power cycle the unit after you clear codes to get the light to go out.

I haven't found an alternate source for them. I'm guessing that MME is buying them directly from TriMark. The part numbers are: Left: 20934-01 2540-01-523-2791 Right: 20933-01 2540-01-523-2765 I found mine on a random ebay listing and they were clearly surplus.

Well.... Not exactly. Note I said newest revision. The original handles on my 2008 used this key. And your original handles should use the exact same key (all of the FMTV's used the same key code if they had the same revision handle): I had these cut by my local smith using a cylinder I...

A1R's already have the Trimark paddle handles. They don't need this modification.

No. The inside handles should both pull up. If the door handle unlocks with jiggling then the outside door handle assembly is worn out. This is what the newest revision handles use for keys: