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I didn't want to lose my cargo space so that's why I did a fender mount condenser. Also lets me play around with what my configuration is, as I tend to switch things up a couple times a year. This was my thread on that conversion...

Red dot uses 3 sized of eaton aeroquip ez-clip hose and associated clamps. Hose sizes are -6, -8, and -12. Might also be labeled as # 6, # 8, # 12, or NO6, NO 8, NO 12. You can usually find someone selling cut sections on ebay. Also sold in lots of refrigeration/aircon websites, but the -12...

I have also heard people claim they are used as tie down points when being air dropped. I have never seen any evidence of either of those situations, and discussions with people that loaded them to rail cars or set them up for air drop all say they have never used them for that nor ever heard...

So the dual condensers in the ECV/REV trucks is because one is for the front aircon (in dash) and the other is for the rear aircon (mounted between rear seats on top of tunnel) If you are doing a Red Dot evaporator with fender condenser, you only need one of the condensers for it to function...

Apparently more than one set of springs in the MAK because mine has the rear cast spring mount and heavy, single rate springs. It can be either mount in the rear.

no issues. The military upgraded them on trucks one at a time as they failed. No imbalance issues as each shaft is independent of the others.

BlueHummer is a line of expensive nuts/bolts/other stuff for the HMMWV that is designed to lock securely and not loosen up. They used to have their own website, but now it's all sold through ModMafia's website. The early trucks had a problem with their spindle lock ring tabs not holding the...

yeah, if it's an M1123 the uparmored springs have a compression rate that's about 3 times that of the standard M998, so shocks won't really make it softer.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/this-is-why-you-check-your-halfshaft-bolts.210313/ And yes, there is no reason why they shouldn't be able to put it in either HL or L for the transfer case, and just driven out.

Very good to know. Do you have a part number or link for the 10" version?

Company that makes the unit is Unimotor, out of Canada. Someone might contact the company and see if they are willing/able to sell these direct to the public. They don't show the military parts in their catalog. All they have is this...

I had to order a new fan assembly. Mine was locked up and shorted to ground, so no fix available at my skill level, as it's a sealed motor assembly. I did a quick search for just the motor and was unable to locate any for sale.

closely matched batteries is more important with the old 60 amp system because it has no mechanism built in to keep the batteries balanced. It's also a good idea to either use an external 12V charger on each battery once a month to equalize the charge level in them, or to swap their positions...

The 6TL battery is only rated around 700-750 CCA. The H1 with identical drivetrain to the HMMWV had 800 CCA batteries. The group 24 battery will work with the original military hold down bracket if you get the flat top version. You can find them in 550 CCA versions up to over 800 CCA versions...

Another thought I've had about the video. This company is taking people out into the middle of the desert in rough terrain, and isn't bothering to properly check the drive train components before going out. Looks like they might just be buying surplus trucks, adding a sun shade and seats in the...

The locking half shaft bolt kit is in the same category as the spindle nut lock kit. Not actually necessary, and expensive, but nice peace of mind. I've done nord locks, and you're right, they do clamp securely. Did them on all 4 shafts not long after I got my truck. Then I had to do halfshaft...

My take from the video: Beadlocks can save you a lot of extra work Halfshaft bolts need checked regularly (the locking halfshaft bolt kit would have paid for itself by not needing towed out) Why didn't they have the transfer case in the locked position?

The old cap should have a rubber diaphragm in it, so as fluid level changes due to break wear, the internal pressure stays the same without being vented to atmosphere. The new cap on it should have a hole in one side of it and a sintered metal filter to keep dust out, but that does allow for...