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can check fuel to the cylinders by loosening (but not removing) one of the hard lines to the injectors. If it starts weeping fuel when it's cranking, you can pretty much eliminate the fuel system as the likely issue (unless most of the injectors suddenly failed somehow, which is pretty unlikely...

only thing I would change in the above is "gross weight is the weight it can safely carry by specification" I would say "gross weight is the weight of the truck and all cargo it can carry by specification" Maybe nitpicky, but the first one sounds like gross weight means cargo capacity. In...

24V nominal = 28V when running so those are the correct bulbs to use. a little wire brushing, and a little dielectric grease, and they would be good to go. You'll definitely need to clean up inside the sockets.

no, not a typo...

I lucked out I guess. The seller I ordered the bracket from gave me tracking on another item I ordered, so I though they would be here together wed or thurs. Nope, it got here today. Got it installed; only thing I did was drilled out the hole for the power steering lines so I could reuse the...

So I found the issue with the exhaust stud. The exhaust manifold flange for that cylinder apparently isn't formed quite right, so when I go to torque down on it, the stud starts pulling off to the side. Pulled the generator mounting bracket off to get at all the bolts, turns out 2 of the 3...

So far I've just used solder to connect mine to wire. I just haven't done enough connectors (maybe a dozen or so) to justify spending the kind of money they want for most of the crimp tools. No issues using solder. Just held the metal connector piece in needle nose pliers, heat it up, stick...

on mine there are holes in the front, that crossmember everyone wants to remove behind the driver's seat. Mine doesn't have the wire retainer part through them, but wouldn't be hard to add.

much better to only switch power with the unit shut off. As in, don't do it while it's running. Not sure on this unit, but the larger ones all have warnings not to switch while running.

the gauges all have little transparent windows on the side/top/bottom for the light to enter them. A lot of the time they can get covered in dust, not allowing light through.

the Red Dot units are great, but take up a LOT of space. if you look around the internet, you will find literally dozens of different ways people have installed them. I personally decided I didn't like the huge external condenser, and installed a fender mount condenser instead. As for the...

how warm of weather are we talking about where it won't glow?

for mine, with brand new sender and gauge, is 50-60 cold, 30ish hot. 6.5l GEP I have never seen it go above 60psi.

Looking around, I did find 2 different part numbers for the support bar, 1 digit apart for part number.

That's the picture from the M1113/M1114 TM. The picture I found in the M998 manual is this one, which shows a short bar.

yeah, it can take a little while to understand how some websites are set up. Once you figure it out though, life gets a lot easier.

there is a dedicated section for the tech manuals. if you scroll up to the top of the page you should see a header bar like this (using Chrome) then the HMMWV will be in the "present conflict vehicles" sub forum. The HMMWV manuals are on the 3rd page at the moment, with some other HMMWV...

Hammer's trucks also invalidate the "Pre/Post 196900" parts breakdown, as both are 182xxx trucks; just one got the newer serp setup during rebuild.

it's the standard HMMWV manual. The M1123 is an A2 series truck. In the parts manual it's UOC NNN for parts. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-m998-series-hmmwv.78861/

in the parts manual the pre 196900 serial number shows bracket to exhaust stud. Post 196900 appears it should be the longer one