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There are four seals involved in the hub CTIS, and they're all part of the quad seal: An o-ring on both the inner and outer bearing, and a ridged (it has an X-shaped cross section) in each of the bearing cups where the bearing bores protrude. The flange cap or flange gasket shouldn't affect...
Is that holding the exhaust pipe guard on? It looks like a kind of bracket for that from this angle. I can't say I've seen many M44 or M39 trucks with a guard like that mounted.
Have you performed any troubleshooting steps yet? Winch troubleshooting procedures are on page 0293 00-11 of TM 9-2320-386-24-1-2.
Winch mechanical maintenance instructions are in the M35 multifuel manual TM 9-2320-361-34. Front winch hydraulics maintenance instructions are in M35A3 TM...
I second the recommendation of taking the truck to a smaller shop. From my experience, commercial truck shops aren't really interested in working on former military trucks (or antique trucks for that matter) unless it's a HMMWV, and they'll make excuses to refuse to repair and/or inspect it...
LOL I'm not so much worried about the weight, but control of it. I'd hate to drop a 30-lb alternator on the water pump or plastic cooling fan after undoing the mount bolts with one hand! Maybe it can be blocked-up somehow. I haven't really taken a good look at it yet to figure it out.
If you have some overhead support available, like a thick tree branch or a beam in a barn, you could set up a comealong or some kind of hoist to help support the alternator. I might try it with an engine crane - somehow!
You can find the instructions starting on page 0012 00-8 of TM 9-2320-386-24-1-1. It goes through charging system troubleshooting for both 60 Amp and 100 Amp systems.
The instructions don't isolate the voltage regulator - they just say to replace the alternator if the troubleshooting procedure...
Maybe the voltage regulator died? I have the same problem with my truck and have yet to seriously troubleshoot it. The voltage regulator can be removed from the alternator so you don't have to spend $600+ for another alternator. The regulators can be had for under $200. Just make sure you...
I didn't balance my tires. They drive fine as-is at 45 MPH. If you decide to re-mount the CTIS valves, you will have to reinstall the wheel weight. I mention what stud the weight goes on somewhere in my thread which I linked as I saw i n the TM picture. Some of my truck's wheel weights...
If you look closely at my second picture, you can see the remains of the truck # stickers under the paint. The extra hooks were installed over them, a #2 specifically. Because of that I'm not sure if this was a unit-based modification or if this was something one of the truck's previous...
The truck belonged to a military mail terminal at Fort Totten at some point. I'm a little surprised that the hooks would be placed where they could obscure the bumper numbers. Would that have been a problem?
There aren't any additional rear numbers I can find on the bumperettes unless they...
I noticed that my M35A3 has extra rear "support hooks" bolted on to the bed below the tailgate. It looks like they were installed over the bumper numbers stickers. Would this have been an Army addition, or something done by one of the previous owners? Other pictures I've seen of A2 and A3...
The numbers you're looking for are in the first volume of the maintenance TM under the wheel maintenance section, I believe. Definitely consult it for allowable torque ranges.
From memory, and to give you an idea of what to expect:
Clamp ring nuts are around 450 ft-lbs
turret valve nut is...
That's good use of the engine hoist trick! That works with beadlock inserts too :)
I know the Michelin XZL tires are non-directional. If you can't determine a tread direction, the Goodyear tires probably are too.
If you look at your old 14.5s the Army didn't care what direction they were...