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Sounds like your clutch disc isn't fully liberated when you depress the clutch pedal. Try to lengthen the pushrod a few threads to give it a bit more travel. You mean, the PTO output shaft (& winch driveshaft) is always turning? No, that is not normal and should be avoided. 1) Shift points...

Well yes, but it not only depends on size and speed. How many ounces it takes to get a tire/wheel combo to neutral equilibrium plays a big role, too. Every case is different: I've had HET wheels which only needed a few ounces while others took up to 5 pounds of lead (!) Same goes for HMMWV...

Try again; I have updated those links now.

USF (Joey) has shipped stuff for me more than once and most likely I would hire them, again. Now my obvious questions: Is this contest open for all SS members, US-citizens or not ? And what would be the approx. timeframe for the winner(s) to actually schedule a transport ?

Good question. Hard to tell, maybe sometime in the early 60's (?) If you are lucky there will be a manufacturing date somewhere under all that paint. Here is a real old-timer....

...."built into the T-case".... ?? It's the P-136-C PTO and it can be retrofitted to any of the T-136-21 or -27 model transfer cases, on any of the M44 series trucks, provided they are stock. Obviously not in this case. OP said: ................

Rare: yes, but still available.... Pricey: maybe, but what is not, nowadays? https://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/collections/m35a2-parts/products/rear-pto-add-on-for-m35a2-7061136

If I was you I would purchase this part (it's called auxiliary drive and it bolts right to the rear of your winch PTO), then find a suitable pump and connect both via a short drive shaft. Just keep in mind that the transmission-mounted PTO is only good for accessories up to 25Hp. Doesn't...

1) Edited title. 2) Keyways on a new shaft are "almost" opposite. (see my drawing in this thread, post #10). 3) Possible source for seals: here

3/8" will work - for a pavement queen..... Just consider this: The stock M35 wheel disk measures almost 1/2" in the center and it is stamped, not just a flat plate - which makes it even stronger. And it was designed for tires much smaller than 46inches. Now if you are referring to the center...

Lol.... Not sure if I ever did post it...... :)

Does this help.....?

The correct rivets are Ø3/16", L 3/8", semi-tubular, brass. I bought these from Jay-Cee, many years ago: BR7-6B And this is their corresponding (air hammer)tool for those : TO-10-4506

It doesn't look so.... Here is some info: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/deuce-starter-model-number.69516/post-844110 Old thread with pics and specs: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/availability-of-multifuel-engine-starter.23484/page-2

They are both exactly the same thing! Same bearing cups #3920, inside and outside. Just remove those eight 1/2" hex bolts attaching the drum to the hub. Then you knock out the wheel studs, and press them back in, from the other side. Finally flip the hub upside down and bolt back together...

Precisely, it would have to be 19.70" Even if both surfaces were machined to perfect flat, there's always some residual tension left, so once you start loosening the nuts that seal will break, in more than one spot eventually. Meaning that parts have to be cleaned and resealed every time. Not...

Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, eBay......... Something like this one.... which I'm sure will include some instructions.

Sure, you could mount the same plate on the front face, as well and still use the stock seal in its original position. Your backspace would go up to a bit over 10 inches, which sometimes is desired to keep the wheels from sticking out too far. Now, why in between both halves|? First, you would...

I feel sorry for that guy...:razz: In that case you may not need those plates chamfered on both sides. Something to keep in mind: The studs are now being pressed into the adapter plate and their knurled/splined neck is only about 7mm long. Being that the studs are only Ø5/8" (15.9mm) but...

Something to start with......