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For starters, model generator are you working on?

The one I repaired looked like this. Vaporized righthand component and burned out PCB trace. I shot gunned it and replaced all 5 components in the row and repaired the burned out trace. The parts didn't cost much. It passed my quick bench test. Shipped it back to the owner. He installed...

I did some work for someone a couple of years ago converting a pile of new 400 Hz 804/5/6 VR's to support 60 Hz operation. It required changing out about a dozen parts to make them 60 Hz units. I haven't gotten into fixing them for the reasons Guy mentioned. If you have a failed one I'd first...

Quad Fuse Mod circled. It gets installed on the back wall behind the gauge panel just to the left of the A1 AC Voltage Regulator. Fuse should be a FNQ-R-3 instead of the KTK-3 in the picture.

The reason proper AC voltage is present with S1 in START is that the set is "Flashing" the gen head to kick off generation. Flashing is NOT done by the AC Voltage Regulator. It's done by other components behind the gauge panel. When you release S1 back to Prime/Run the AC Voltage Regulator...

Most likely a bad AC Voltage Regulator. You should test per the -24 TM to be sure.

From what I could see that control box was designed to upgrade a 804B to be part of a "Micro Grid". Basically a bunch of generators that can load share and are automatically started and stopped based on load demand on the Micro Grid. Here is an example using AAMPS gensets

I'm not familiar with the 007 or that box. Not sure I can be of assistance with checking the OPs proposed design.

The MEP-803A can be set to output one of three different Phase/Voltage settings. 1) 120 volt 2) 120/240 volt Single Phase 3) 120/208 3 Phase The output specs for the MEP-803A. The first voltage is the phase to neutral voltage. The second voltage, if listed, is the phase to phase voltage(s)...

Or clamp them onto the insulated posts on the wall next to the battery tray.

The spec sheet for it says 50-60 Hz input.

It could be one of the resistors has failed open. I'd suggest disconnecting the two wires to CT3 and then measure the resistance between the two removed wires. It ought to be 3.75 ohms. The resistance of R12 & R13 7.5ohm resistors in parallel. If you get about 7.5 ohms then I'd suspect one...

Sending a PM

Yes, I still make and sell the conversion kits. Just shipped 18 kits earlier this week. I can source the gen head if desired and have it drop shipped.

Wow!

At 100% both R12 and R13 should have the same voltage of about 5 volts like the other resistors.

You indicated you had 9.5 v across R12. What's the voltage across R13? When set to 120/240 the switch connects R12 and R13 in parallel. My hunch is they are not getting connected in parallel resulting in about 2x the voltage.

The only relay in the row that has anything to dowith the contactor operation is K20 the rightmost one. It provides 24 volts for the contactor control circuit.

Yes, you can jump it using the slave port. Of course you can pull start it too. It will run without any batteries.