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When buying fuel at a truck stop, and it asks for tractor or reefer (heh) fuel, use "Tractor". For someone who is in an agriculture area, generally tractor (an agriculture tractor) fuel is red dyed and is less expensive since they dont tax it for road use. At a truck stop, a tractor means the...

A forum about the M35 is likely the wrong place to ask, but why isn't a light oil not used as coolant in internal combustion engines (ICE) in general? I couldn't find an answer other than a non conclusive discussion on bobs the oil guy and a silly video where a couple of amusing knuckleheads...

Question of current state of fuel and additives - when I was on active duty, diesel was very oily, diesel I am getting at pump recently seems to evaporate much quicker and isn't as 'oily'. It seems more gasonlie like, other than its a pain to fill a tank since it froths kinda like beer just...

Thank you very much for digging that up, I must have missed it. Copper washer seems to work, it is dry after a highway run. I really appreciate your suggestion. I was worried about the gap added with the washer, but it seems to have no negative effect on performance.

Bummer, it didn't hold, it is leaking after driving it a bit, much slower but leaking. I didn't see a torque anywhere, I did 50lbs since I am worried about breaking it. I assume teflon tape or something wouldn't help in this high pressure area?

With a helpful tip from Big Mike, who recommended foot powder on a clean part, I was able to isolate a slow fuel leak to the hydraulic head top center fastener (not sure what to call this) - the one in the center of the fuel lines as they leave the hydraulic head towards the cylinders. Mine has...

Yes, this is what I am hoping to focus on, specific guidance for a person new to the M35a2 wanting to drive their truck in the best possible way, specifically minimizing damage done and improving longevity. This is what I am finding works best for my skill level and truck - I feel much better...

Thank you for opting to join in, its good to have the perspective of someone that is familiar with the guts of these machines. I most certainly am not.

I initially learned to drive a manual by being stuck doing it. I arrived at a new duty station, was invited to the local bars the people in my new unit, and not wanting to get liquored up in a new place, opted to pass on drinking. Everyone else did get liquored up and when it came time to go...

Yep that was silly of me: Circled in red, looks like an add on by a unit rather than something from the factory. It appears to do nothing. The blue light is also inoperative and Im inclined to remove it but its bolted on so ill need a cap or something for the holes left behind. Ill trace...

Thank you for explaining the difference, there isn't much searching for M185 specific to it. Remote start, is this in the dash? There is a circuit breaker and trip switch on the dash that does not appear to do anything, and isn't on a regular M35A2

That PDF on installing electronics in a shop van is perfect, thank you. Connie (from PS magazine) now says "jot down the info" instead of "jot down the dope" on the change recommendation form (on the last pages), just noticed this.

I think its a M185 anyway, according to the dataplate on the shelter. Wikipedia says an M185 is a machine shop, but this one was likely a Wyoming NG ops van based on things I found in it (a commercial phone number directory page). M109 seems to be the more common version, not sure how to...

Drove it quite alot yesterday on backroads and I think I have it figured out. Mainly just matching speed to what gear I am in. When downshifting previously it would bounce around and this apparently was simply because my speed was too fast for whatever gear I was trying to downshift to...

I think my transmission is in good shape, its the operator (me) that is the problem. "blip the throttle" - going to practice this today on backroads - timing and appropriate throttle is what I need to get down. Ill also try floating if I can manage this without mangling my gears.

Thank you very much for the reply, and yes it would be desirable to keep positive control of this heavy vehicle. The problem I am having is I keep missing downshift (wont pop in) or I feel like I am forcing it. I have a long stretch of backroad I can use to cycle this and get familiar with it...

***Summary of Responses to original question*** The vehicle should be in gear while moving to maintain control of the vehicle. Avoid coasting (in neutral) even when deaccelerating. Basic technique: To accelerate: Use first to get moving and quickly get to second from there. Shift second...

Likely not the exclusive use, but I remember these used as AFATDS components - Advanced Field Artillery Tactical Data System (AFATDS) (globalsecurity.org) Been quite awhile though since I have seen green computers, late 90s early 2000s. Early GWOT there was a flurry of largely incompatible...

I think the engine needs rebuilt, I really need to do compression test, but I am sure the answer is that its tired. I don't have a frame of reference having not operated any other M37, but I think mine is really sluggish/worn. Not surprising, its 70 something years old. I assume a rebuild...

I ended up with an M37 that I am using as a camping vehicle. Quite by accident I ended up with a Korean war era setup with tent (purchased prior to truck), truck, and other items. I was interested in the M37 since it was larger than a jeep and I thought having a mil vehicle would be more fun...