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Military battery terminals are made to specifications like these for a perfect fit.

These are actual Stewart Warner test results. Note the variation in start and "FD switch" times. "F.D. Switch" is the time it takes for the flame detector to switch and the unit running on its own and it is not a constant by any means. Fuel used is #2 diesel.

Thanks, the starting time varies a lot from TM to TM, you may have some smoke after 75 seconds, but I have yet to see one that actually switches over and runs on its own in less than 2 minutes. If fuel flow is correct and the igniter working, there isn't much one can do in terms of a "tune up"...

The flame switch adjustment is important and if the heater shuts down after, say 10 to 20 seconds, then you may want to turn the screw an additional 1/4 turn or so, which will require the temperature to be slightly higher before the "switch-over". About the error, the diagram is wrong IMHO...

Okay, then the wiring diagram is as shown here, with and without correction by yours truly.

Yes, fiberglass is the wick of choice, cotton will not last.

The blower runs at a lower speed during start (lower than in "LO"). Which control box do you have? The push to test light is supposed to confirm that you have 24vdc to the unit and turns on after the unit start up. Is it one of these? After the unit has shut down (switched to "OFF"), there is...

PM sent

A 2-minute start attempt is not long enough! Try 3 to 5 minutes, just don't quit. Keep in mind that all the while, fuel is dripping into the combustion chamber and accumulating. After several aborted starts, you will have a fire hazard with fuel sloshing around in the heater. In the beginning...

Kerosene is harder to start.

This is the Feb 2010 MVM issue article on the heaters, not the new and not the 1940's, but should help understand the operation, since it's similar for all. If you find patent numbers on the labels like 2133103, 2150650 and 2191174 on the 978 units, do a patent search for very good info.

With "new", I refer to anything after ca 1975. Ha Ha I may have a manual for the 978 somewhere, I'll get back to you.

The parts shown in my previous post are for the older, simpler model, which has two solenoids, one for "HI" and one for "LO", so they won't be of much help. Sorry about that. The newer single solenoid units modulate the on/off and thus control the fuel flow. You may want to put an ohmmeter to...

This is what I have for the 60K BTU heater, PM me if interested.

Be careful when selecting a solvent, tiny O-rings and rubber membrane(s) may swell and not recover. Gasoline is probably best, just be fully aware of the fire hazard. If the control valve is not "clicking", the control circuitry may be at fault. I may have one, removed from a 60K BTU unit...will...

The fuel control valve does have thermostatically controlled heaters, but they should not get very hot, perhaps 70°F or so (not enough to produce smoke). Not familiar with the newer models that are "transistorized" and use an on-off modulating control valve, the clicking noise you refer to. How...

I'm a fan of oil filters that drain. Just think of an oil pan heater that will then heat all the oil for an easy start in the Winter without bypassing the filters, where the oil may otherwise be to viscous to flow. IMHO, the reason they were designed to drain in the first place.

Good, and you may also need to replace the start switch. In addition, I would recommend that a diode is added as shown here, typically 1N4003 or equivalent. It will protect the start switch from electrical spikes produced by the inductive load (start relay).

There is supposed to be a starter relay to reduce current demand on the start switch, typically 1 amp vs 30 amp. These are the wires required respectively.

Simple mod really, and won't be mistaken for the low air warning, which is uninterrupted.