Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I had a local trophy shop make this rear diff lock plaque. I drew it up in MS Word, and gave them the overall dimensions. Don't remember exactly what it cost, but less than $20. It's just laser-engraved aluminum, and they do that stuff all day long (I did mill out the slot for the switch lever...
From post #88; " It is a 20.5 mm with a thread pitch of 1.25mm..."
Would you happen to have a source/part# for a Boss plug that would work for that size/pitch?
Seems like 20.5x 1.25 would be awful close to 13/16-20, for which I can find taps, dies, and testers, but no plugs.
When I did mine, seems like I had the same experience you're having with the intake elbow plugs, one fit properly, while the other threaded in, but the threads were obviously loose. Given the fact that I'll most likely never remove those plugs, and that I didn't see the need for the plug threads...
Replaced the compressor pulley outer flange with a NOS one from TNJ Murray, along with a couple of new grade 8 bolts. Old one was cracked at one of the cinch points. During the replacement, used the new compressor pulley wrench set that I finally broke down and bought. Made a conduit pipe...
Uh-oh... a bunch of exclamation points... we've angered the bus-boy again by offering a differing perspective.
I must confess, I've been guilty of applying a dab of anti seize to the lugs and reducing the torque to 250 to offset the lubricity of the anti seize. Haven't broken a stud, or had a...
Thanks Floridianson. Very informative read. A search for RP 618 led me to the 8 steps on Timken's site here;https://www.timken.com/pdf/10420_Wheel%20Bearing%20Adjustment_Poster.pdf Sub-step "D" of step 8 is kinda what I do when I grab 2 opposing lugnuts and shove the drum in and out... just...
I'm genuinely curious about this, not trying to instigate, or downplay anyone's commonly accepted procedure, just trying to glean some understanding for myself and others who may be curious too, so please bear with me...
I can understand if we've just pressed in new bearing cups (mated with new...
Brand new M35A2 service brake shoe friction material only, thickness .329"-.335";
Friction Material and plate, thickness .513"-.515";
Recess depth to a rivet head, approx. .142";
Have a great weekend!
If you don't already have one, get one of those laser thermometers from harbor freight. They have coupons in their catalogs for them at $17.99. They're handy for all sorts of stuff... checking out hub and other mechanical device temps, checking to see if the wife is angrier than usual and about...
I'd venture to say that you have far more experience than I do, but like others, I have sheared the slot-tab off of the newer seals by torquing the inner nuts over 50, even when they're greased good on both sides;
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132817-Newstar-hub-seals
Seems like...
I just got done installing the civvy turn signal flasher Doghead recommended in his #6 & #12 posts here;
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/economical-turn-signal-flasher-repair-option.132184/#post-1633814...
In my experience, it's **** hard to feel any play by grabbing the drum itself, and it's **** hard to get consistent play by just backing the nut off a predetermined amount... I might get flamed for this, but what has worked for me is to tighten the inner nut to 50' lbs., put a lug nut on two...
Spread a big Harbor Freight moving blanket under the truck, and went on a good 'ol "loose fastener and air line leak quest". Found nothing in the way of loose nuts/bolts, but did find 2 little air leaks; 1 where the supply line comes into the air-pack, and another on the old-style air governor...
Can't help with your exact question, not sure there's a prexisting locale for such an animal to be used on the deuce, and I know that you want to "get 'er done" with what you've got on hand, but I will say from experience that it is so easy to just poke a hole in the exhaust manifold, tap it...
As others had suggested here on SS, I put one of those Parker 1C20-10 pumps out of a Bradley in mine awhile back. Runs so quitely, and man does it put out volume. I only see 1 left on that "E" auction site now (use search "m35a2 fuel pump").
Mike, while you have the old injector apart, take a minute to anneal both of those old copper seals with a propane torch (heat them up to a medium cherry red, and let them air-cool) and make sure to put some sealant on the 1/2-20 injector line plug, and you should be golden.
Good morning Rusty, lots of folks have done this and reported good results. I've seen different pics of ones folks have put together, a quick search dug this one that up that RAYZER did here, with pics in post 11...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!