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I would definitely pay someone to do the welding.

I didn't think it will be this stuck as I had other stubborn ones, but which eventually gave in, but this one...gave nothing. I did think about the heating (I have a propane torch) but AFTER the fact lol...of course...I can still do a few last resort heating/ cooling cycles to see if I could get...

Yes, it makes total sense and I have new drain plugs, just never welded before. The closest similar experience I have is soldering from millimeter electronic parts to water copper pipes. I could get a welder and give it a shot, it seems like a pretty low risk job?

As I posted in another thread, one of the geared hubs drain plugs was stuck, the Allen key bent so much, I thought it will snap (it felt like 100 ft lb or even more). And with each pull, the drain plug head had more play...not good. I put some penetrating oil, but the whole thing is upside...

Check this out…crazy….so here are the wheel weights, 72 pieces (last row is doubled up) x 1/4oz = 18oz…this tire has the most weights of all and is also the one that induces the increased vibration at higher speeds…. At the time I didn’t think much of the huge amount of weights as I heard that...

Yes. I only lifted one wheel and tried to mark it by hand. You are right about not making a big difference, and that’s to speeds up to 65mph, after that the truck starts to vibrate between 65mph and 80mph, and I just want it to be very smooth across the whole range, that’s why the obsession...

Yes, that’s exactly what I am planning, to do the rim without the tire.

Yes, very good! I was going to make a simple holder and combine it with the creeper to advance it slowly and mark it more precisely than by hand, but there is not much room on the inside, I presume you marked it by hand? I always tend to make things more complicated and create a lot more work...

Did you mark it on the rim cap (the one that has the 24 holes) or on the larger rim part (which has the 24bolts)?

I am about to redo some of the tires and I can see how to easily mark the high spot on the large half of the wheel (which I think is the one that matters more?) coming from the outside, perpendicular with a chalk. To mark the low spot, I would have to come from the center of the tire...

On my hub fill port bolts someone drew a white line across the bolt and part of the hub with some paint that is not easy removable after the bolts were torqued so it can be quickly inspected visually if the bolts are loose. I think the spec is 8-13 ft lb and it seems like that paint line says...

Yea, looks really good! It appears that they used the same or a similar spring spacer and upper ball joint shim: And here is the body lift spacer. Some say that as you go higher, the spacer should be stiffer than the standard ones, otherwise it changes the dynamics of the chassis vs frame...

Yes, like this one it's setup on 42s: This particular one, it is also an in-between, ECV, without the geared fan.

Congratulations on the new truck! That's what I have also (I presume it's the M1165A1) . I have a lot of other things to do, and will follow your progress if you don't mind. Check out these guys at RubberDuck, in addition to the spring spacers they also added an upper ball joint shim to...

You are right, that would be the path of least resistance and can always change it later if needed. One thing I have to figure out is a spacer that would lift & secure the nose (to match the hood body lift), which on my truck is separated from the hood and it is currently secured to the winch...

You are bringing up an important point about the existing height...my REV (some call it REV B) truck is at about 26" to 26.50" from center wheel to the fender (which would be higher than coolboat's 25" or so, IIRC), same height front and rear and I am trying to figure out if my springs are...

From what I understand the spacers make the ride stiffer. Without doing the math and just reading Gilder's calculations of the spring rates, travel length, etc. it sounded like he had it dialed in to get the higher ride from the springs. I am not looking for a softer ride as mine are pretty...

I can totally see that, even the arms and the whole geometry will be out of whack.

Thank you for bringing me back to reality...yes the 2" spring + 2" body lift seems the way to go, I just didn't want to do spacers over springs and just use the right springs. What is the approximate curb weight of your truck? (not sure what exact model you have)

I have been reading all your posts about the Armada springs (in another thread also) for a while and maybe you could provide some guidance... my truck is stock and there is about 26" to 26.5" from the center wheel to the fenders, same distance in the front and back, on a 12.1k chassis, with a...