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If you dont want to mess with the zinc additives, Chevron Delo 400LE diesel oil has enough in it to provide anti wear protection with 1300ppm zinc. there are other more expensive oils with more anti wear additives, such as Redline and Lucas, but the cost is too much. Be ware that too much is...

https://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf..........as you can see here, people often dump a gallon of motor oil in their fuel tank thinking it lubes the IP. Motor oil has been reformulated over the years and doesn't replace/add sulfur in diesel fuel

8 ounces treats 30 gallons. I have a 50 gallon fuel tank, I never let it get below 20 Gal, so I just dump a 1/2 pint bottle in when filling up. Walmart sells it pretty cheap. You can also buy it in bulk online if you need a lot. I have 5 diesel engines I use it in. There are articles here about...

I use Stanadyne diesel additive in the summer/spring/fall for injection pump lube, and Howes in the winter to prevent diesel gel.

Is the oil coming out of the slobber tube? Are you losing oil level on the dip stick, or is it rising?

A "D" turbo doesn't whistle. The turbo should spin with just a flick of your finger. It shouldn't be the cause of low power. What screen? Pic...please

is the exhaust side oily? check for shaft play too. Maybe there's nothing wrong with it. Remember, the turbo was originally added to prevent black smoke on these engines, not to produce a bunch more horsepower....maybe 5-10 more HP. They can run without one.

I'd make sure the blow by is actually from piston/sleeve and not from another source. Such as blocked line from the valve covers to the slobber tube, or air compressor problem pressurizing the crank case. It should be also burning oil too if it has excessive blow by. Hows the oil consumption? If...

Im interested in doing it when mine needs it. Im guessing if you have the accessories on you dt466 such as air compressor, radiator and power steering pump for later upgrade, and use the transmission from the donor, it would be more engine/transmission mount fabrication, (which is simple for a...

remember, you have the parking brake to stop you too under a emergency.

did you check the fuel water separator on the frame, passenger side above the front axle? Or are you calling that the primary filter?.

I guess mine is a later model. 1987. M35A2C

Also the C has dual circuit brakes and are usually owned by great bass fishermen.

I appreciate your up dates. I ALMOST wish I was visiting Ca so I could help. But I fled from there 8 years ago the day after I retired from EBMUD. (Pardee dam section)

Maybe pull the top off and check the shifting forks? They are commonly overlooked in a rebuild for wear. also it would allow you to inspect the "rebuild". Its quick and easy since you can do it from the cab.

A good used one is cheaper than a 50 mile tow.

After verifying proper fuel pressure to the IP, I would have removed the throttle linkage off the IP and manually operated it front the IP itself to see if it would respond. If not, then it would go back to the rebuilder. Bypassing the FDC likely voided your warranty.

I could make some $$$ up here with that. The log truck drivers would have me on speed dial. But Im afraid I'll die of old age before I had that rig paid off.

Id like to have #9 , the amphibious car. I could get into Bonner lake where they only allow electric board engines, but didn't say anything about cars.

they are too long and should be pointing more at a downward angle which would make the front of the truck a counterweight. Everything was wrong in that vid.