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I hate to say this, someone spent a lot of money on that Ford. You never get it back out but it looks like you are starting with something which has been completely gone through.
Like it was mentioned, depends on what you want to do with it. If tooling down the interstate at 75 pulling a...
Both are probably good buys and equally stout. The 351 probably will have more power than the 6.2 but the diesel wins hands down for simplicity. You are right, all CUCV's feel like they are missing a gear. Just the way it is with the 4.56 diff ratios. If it is rust free and runs good, probably a...
If they haven't been addressed, you probably should start back at the tank and replace all of the rubber line. Work your way forward and if the box filter is questionable replace it with a spin on. I would also spend $30 and put a genuine AC Delco mechanical pump on the block. Remember these...
I never even thought of interior dome lamps and door switches before. I'm thinking if you can get the door switches installed, you could wire up a system to have some door lights as well. Some cheapo LED's on the bottom of the door skin to illuminate the ground when you step out or under the...
I put a front receiver hitch on and use a MM 24v 12,000 lb. winch with a NATO cable hookup. It's swappable front and back now that I have a receptacle in the back.
Definitely post up some photos, it would be nice to see what you have and maybe a link to a build thread if you have one. Always good to see these as a reference for myself or anyone else down the road looking for the information.
AC60g's, no idea what I paid for them 3 years ago. They were moderately priced and in stock at Napa.
Resistor bypass, stock card, works 100% and starts within 2-3 seconds of cranking in anything we typically we see in New England although I try to preheat oil and coolant when possible.
I apologize if that sounded like it was directed at you. It was more of a broad statement for someone that finds this thread and is trying to follow along.
I agree to that theory but the wire heats up and resistance drastically goes up plus the battery would not put that current out once the voltage starts to drop. I'm sure the calculations are a good starting point but that statement is very confusing for someone struggling with basic electricity.
I would take the new batts out back, charge them to 100%, stick them in front and see what it does. Your cheapo meter should have no issues measuring DV volts accurately enough for what we need here. I would get any replacement as an isolated ground since I like to keep them matching in case you...
That is a lot of information to take in. Before I go any further I would disconnect anything that is not stock to eliminate any issues trying to diagnose the problem. Start with the obvious, your 12v battery sounds questionable or your Gen 1 isn't charging. Charge both batts, load test them to...
I have not camped in it yet. I like the enclosed space. I want it to be so that no one is the wiser if the truck is in a parking spot and it doesn't stick out like an RV or travel trailer. I am redoing the insulation and will be putting a diesel hydronic heater to battle the cold.
I am converting mine over to how a normal CUCV charging system works except I am using a pair of Leece Neville 12v 160A self exciting units instead of the 27si units. I still have to integrate it to the batteries and bus bars. I pulled the entire engine harness and cut out the already hacked up...
I agree, kill those terminal clamps.
I have to re-do everything on my M1010. I just bought $150 worth of cable and lugs on McMaster Carr to do this...not cheap. I would also run the cables on top of the battery hold downs or add some protective chaffe cover to them. Project looks like it is...
You asked for information regarding seal replacement vs. replacing what you have with a reman. I offered up something for you to condsider regarding a reman box which apparently to you seemed like "rocket science". You can take my opinion for what it is but I think your attitude and tone in...
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