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If you get a chance, grab some pictures of how the cover comes off of the +24v terminal strip / buss bar that sits below the radiator. This is the junction point of the battery cable, slave cable, & starter cable. Thanks Tony.
I am trying to hook up a slave cable socket to the Gama Goat's electrical system.
Who can tell me the secret to removing the buss bar cover that is located below the radiator? I can reach the driver's side cut out in the cover. Got a 9/16 wrench on top of the lock. But I think the bolt is...
No worries on the that one, most of that will just buff right out. :)
Nice project. There is still a lot of good parts there.
They can't all be trailer queens.
Well that made a world of difference. The new MC has stiffened up the brake peddle. I bled the rear and there was a bit resistance at the end of the peddle. The after bleeding the center the peddle became really hard. I will get to the fronts tomorrow.
I think I remember reading that the...
I too had soft brakes.
I had replaced the rubber lines, even having to remove the coil spring on the passenger rear for access.
I cleaned up the brake quick disconnects between the tractor and trailer.
None of it helped.
So I had the same master cylinder (MC) that you used sitting on the shelf...
It rolls, so you can move it.
It looks to have glass, so it can sit in the rain, under a tarp and not get any worse than it is, as you figure out what to do next.
You had the tools to recover & transport it to its new home. So you didn't have to invest dollars in a wrecker, only the...
Nice!
Is it hinged at the tongue end, with pneumatic cylinders to hold it open? Or put the hinge on the side. So much easier to use if it is going to be a camp trailer.
That ekm meter is nice. Could easily be wired inline with the output from the inverter and only $90. Good find.
A $20 kila-watt meter from wally world and a cheap extension cord, $10 and you could also wire it between the output of the inverter and your outlets.
The $90 option would be...
Twofive35, the Wagner power painter I use has a plastic gage, like a long thin pitch fork, with 1/2" gap between the forks. You dip it in the paint and if the paint can't bridge the gap then the paint is thin enough to spray, otherwise you drip another few drops of water into the paint, stir and...
Florida AKM, look at the hubs. There are probably 2 screws in each hub already. So you only need 8 in the bag. If you are talking of the large gasket that goes between the lockout and the hub, a bit of rtv at the tears will make things seal. You should only need the inner circle of the...
Thanx a bunch for the pictures Flywheel. And for taking the time to disassemble the fuel can setup. It is most appreciated. I saw another front bumper mount fuel can setup that used the jerry can holders
And they cost in the $65 each range. Your setup looks like something I could fabricate.
My hubs made it to the Columbia Basin of WA today. Looks like they were also trying to claw their way out of the box. Maybe consider sealing them in a free USPS tyvek mailer before sealing them in the cardboard box. No more cost to the mailer, but harder to lose a single part.
Off to leave...
Very nice acquisition. Congrats.
Could you provide some pictures of how the front bumper fuel cans are mounted? I really would like to duplicate that look.
I might have to paint my rims brushed aluminum now, in order to match the lock outs. Although your black rim with aluminum hi-lites is nice also. Thanx for the front end version of the step Xstep.
I will have to wait until noon for the mail to be delivered, and even then it is not a sure...
So who is going to do a step by step installation thread with plenty of pictures?
Or is it as easy as unbolt, bolt back on?
Do they need axle shafts with splines at both ends?
Guess it is time to go look up some locker threads.
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