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Theres a prety good calculator on watts/amps/Pf. http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Volt_to_Watt_Calculator.htm

a properly exercised set shouldn't need one of these chargers. I have lawnmower batteries in my set and only exercise it every 4-6 months. I guess if you have a pair of $200 optimum batteries then a $40 solar charger is cheap insurance on not ending up with a destroyed battery. for me car...

You can use JIC hyd hose. Surplus center has cheap hoses that i have used in actual hydraulic systems so i think there up to the task of this. A parker dealer is prob going to charge you as much for one fitting as the whole hose on surplus center.

They also put hours and alot of wear on what could be a very expensive tractor. I have a 60hp tractor with a PTO. Never will it run a pto generator.

I covered the lower hole also. I have used those topcat baits but they attract mice.

I had been doing almost weekly visual checks of my set but this las time i saw the tell tale small black spots on the floor by the battery. Looked around and saw a bunch of yard debts up behind the generator head, i knew i couldnt risk starting the unit yet. After a week of trying to get time...

Glad to hear your set is running and producing power as it should. Thats quite a good burn rate for a 803a.

I would rig up some plug for the hole in the fuel tank until you have fully tested the set. No use in spending money u dont have to. After its a known good set i would look for a new fuel tank or find a sutable aux tank to use as a main tank and abandon the day tank.

Something i have found checking rad hoses is..if you pinch it hard and you feel/hear the cords inside breaking at all. Its time to change it. It can be a bit difficult with the metal spiral in these hoses.

That wouldnt leave me enought working room personaly. Bif i cant get in there easy enough the tank is to close.

Yes thats the one stweart werner 284m. 24v gauge that wors with factory sender and fits the factory gauge hole.

Its always best to start with the positive like someone said. This way when your attaching the last cable you have little chance of arcing the positive to the chassis ground.

I had a bad gauge. Tested for power/ground at the gauge. Tested for ohms on the S terminal wire and everything checked out. I replaced the gauge with a new $50 stewart werner gauge thats 24v and used the original sensor. I can get the model number of the gauge if you need it.

All of those wires should be numbered and in the manual you will find a terminal number for thr switch. The hardest part will be figuring out how to cross over the new switch.

With the correct thread size and closing temp you should beable to find something thats not $50. Im at work so cant put eyes on the sensor.

I would get the unit running rough again and crack a fuel line with a bucket under it. Everything is pointing to a fuel issue. You could also run the set on a external tank. I would buy a new main pump and plumb the pressure and return both from this external source. btw. Did you order a...

I have never had to fill one from empty but why not just stick a floor jack under the fill side and tip the whole unit?

Any generator fuel/hr burn rate is going to be very dependent on the load. Houses dont run on just one amperage for hours so you should really do your own test. I would expect it to be almosy double the rate for the 802a. Thats prety much what the specs show for max/min fuel/hr rating. After...

Thats great news. A gas set could burn a hefty bit more than doube that. I average about 7gal per 24hr with no load shedding at all, electric stove and heat pump water heater. About 0.3gal/hr 802a

I believe the injectors go directly into the cylinder on these engines. Ribble some oil around them and watch when you crank it.