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Everything Ive read about those switches lately revolves around them being notorious for starting fires.
I like the high zoot look but after seeing several pics of crispy buttons, I'm wary of them.
Made a little steel plate to mount a magnetic interior light
Cut up an old floormat to insulate the center of the tunnel where the wood was.
Tilted the drivers seat back a little
Started mounting up my 4 man cargo divider brackets
Ive seen that, too.
I also wondered what it was about and it seemed to be mostly on serpentine belted engines missing the belt. My guess is it was done to warn that the belt was missing, or to not start the engine or something like that???
The door blanks come off easy. First you need to remove the troop seat assemblies.
Just remove the four 1/4" 12 point bolts and twist the rear strap dzus fastener 90 degrees and lift it up in the rear first and weasel it out.
The rear bulkhead unbolts with four screws. The rear curtain clips...
They had minimal movement. They weren't touching, but real close.
I swapped out the new short for the original long stud isolators.
I installed the old washers behind the isolators to give them a smidge more clearance
Way better thread engagement and housing clearance now. Thanks for the...
Reading this made me revisit my Short stud issue with my Trucklite LEDs. I dug out my old headlight buckets and harvested the isolators. I will move the beast outside in the morning to see if I can effect an isolator transplant.
finally took it offroad and ran the transfer case through the ranges.
Real hard to shift even using all my slow roll in neutral skills.
It shifts, but right at that "somethings gonna break" effort.
I cleaned an lubed the shifters and pivot points of the linkages last week so those are good to go.
Cleaned up the battery cables and installed new clamps
Installed the keyed ignition switch
Upgraded to the A2 steering wheel
Retrofitted Civilian wiper blades.
Start from the problem and work toward the battery. Replace the bulb with a known good unit to eliminate the easiest first, Then inspect and clean the socket contacts and socket barrel itself as its the ground path, then look for the power and ground wires and where they fasten and clean that...
I wonder if thats what I got going on now...It was a knuckle+ low when I changed fluid. Then it started the leak. There is evidence that it has been happening in the past.