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For the back story, I daily drove a CUCV for about 5 years and put close to 100k miles on it. Overall, the truck was very reliable, except for the v-belts. They required replacement with a specific brand of belts every 20k miles and getting the power steering pump tight was a PITA. I have always...

Check out Magni Coatings or Dacromet for more info.

I've got a pair of these in #3 size to install: http://www.cunninghamairwhistles.com/specs.html 120 dB at 25 feet. Wonder how big of an air tank I'll need.

Look for a silicone based adhesive for heat tolerance. I don't have experience with the product but maybe this is an option? Silicone Adhesives, 3/4" Wide, 60 Yard Long, 0.002" Thick https://www.mcmaster.com/7615A51

Ridgid makes the best hand flaring tools. If you don't need a case, this is a good deal. https://www.globaltestsupply.com/product/ridgid-345-dl-manual-flare-tool-23337?gclid=CjwKCAjws--ZBhAXEiwAv-RNL73PBIlbH7DoX9qJePgGeFg49C8rlJnItJlcVicv3_Z7dMf81xbh6hoCvFsQAvD_BwE Otherwise 33927 comes with...

No need to soak bearings, that just attracts dirt during assembly. Just a few drops to keep things wet until you fill it is all that is necessary.

Yes, the Bendix fully engages the flexplate tooth before connecting power to the starter. The damage in the picture will not cause the Bendix to slip.

Phosphoric acid will remove the rust and can etch the paint to promote adhesion. There are silane adhesion promoters if you can tolerate the price. Otherwise an epoxy primer is your next best bet.

That Spectra premium one is the one that did me wrong.

If you do go for, it take a grinder and spoon out the damaged areas so there are no sharp edges. Consider doing a dye pen check to make sure no other teeth are cracked.

Let us know how that radiator is. I bought an aftermarket brass one a while back. It was fully half the weight of the OEM. It was junk. The aluminum/plastic aftermarket radiators are better.

The heater core design doesn't lend itself to being recored. The radiator does. I have a premier shop locally that recores radiators. They aren't cheap. I junked my old radiator in the past because I couldn't afford to recore it. I regret that today now that I can afford the option. Just keep...

I got mine at the local parts house. Murray is just about the only stock replacement option for cores and radiators for these trucks nowadays. Cavitation caused the failure, it eroded away right where water from the inlet hits the side of the tank. My new aluminium replacement hasn't failed yet...

I've had a new aluminum core erode through at the tank within a few months of installing. At least it takes less than half an hour to change them.

You can get seal kits from companies like Diamond Diesel. On the Stanadyne pumps it's the throttle shaft seal that goes bad but it's not much more work to do the rest. I don't know if this applies to your pump. The paint marks mean calibration points so don't loosen the painted screws. If you...

I'm just a big epoxy fan. I use Click Bond adhesive mount fasteners everywhere I can in my job. Lots of bad anecdotal information out there so I like to jump on possible epoxy applications. As for your meter, volts and hertz are taken from the same measurement. Some meters use control...

The reverse impeller is for serpentine belts. There are 3 pumps available. The 6.2 pump for v-belts. A 6.2/6.5 pump for serpentine. A 6.5 high flow pump for 96+ serpentine. The high flow pump will not bolt to the older backing plates. With that said, if you're using v-belts use the 6.2 pump. If...

Generally, you want to do as little as possible. I have only done this on the Stanadyne DB2 but none of the adjustable parts of the pump have to be disturbed to replace all of the seals. Adjustable components can be removed as an assembly.

Is the corrosion in the bottom localized? I would epoxy a sheet metal patch on the outside of the pitting can be covered by it. This is a lot less likely to cause problems than using a liner.

You can drop the pan without pulling the motor, fairly easy. Rods can get a wiggle test. Mains you'll have to drop a cap. Have you tried rolling the engine with a wrench on crank front bolt? The 28MT was the better starter available for the engine...