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Stupid question, are you sure the BO lights aren't working? If you've never seen them in use in the military then they may be on and you wouldn't even know it, to make sure check them at night and look in the 'cats eye'. Just hopeing thats all it is.

Yes , it bolts to the frame not the bumper.

This or a class 5, I would NOT use that bolt on one in the OP.

Check out a company called Auto vehicle Parts Co. or Au-Ve-Co for short they used to carry all that stuff and if still around I'm sure still do. Just took a look and the part no. your looking for is 15518 and is for GM door latch rods from 1964-up and come 25 to a box.

I believe that the 460LE is the newer comperized version of the 700r4, remember if I'm wrong this advice was free.

I'd be tempted to use a pressure washer and then replace the gauge cluster if nessasary.

That extra load on the 20 A fuse really shouldn't have tripped it, I'd replace the fuse with another 20A and see if possibly that old fuse was just 'old'. IIRC there are a couple of 12volt keyed take off terminals in that fuse block, tap one of them and use an inline fuse for the pump relay, the...

LET ME CLARIFY!! I am not a fan of welding on frames or welding brackets ectra to a frame. I've shortened and lengthened light and heavy truck frames but I also went to school for that. The shock brackets I mentioned welding had been cut off between the frame and shock bolt so was an easy...

I wouldn't worry about it,any type of thread chaser will more than likely do more damage then good. Like said oil and install.

I remember repairing two shock mounts years ago when I did body work, a FNG at a local muffler shop got happy with a cutting torch. Instead of cutting the bolt head off he cut the mount. I used a piece of steel about 2"x3" and about 3/16" , I drilled the 1/2"hole in it and used the mounting bolt...

Once again, why am I not surprised? Is there any CUCV/GM truck part you don't have?

Somebody put a lot of time and money into that truck, looks good from here!

Those rivets don't just clamp the two pieces together, they also expand INSIDE the holes and need to be drilled out. If you try to just drive them out with a hammer and punch you might succeed with one but you will end up denting the frame and sooner or later your hand too. The shocks don't...

Service lights are all the 'normal' lights, tail/marker/stop/turn/headlights. That switch needs to be in the up position all the time.

Ah-ha! That kinda changes things, Yeah I'd pull the old one and drop in the new one at the same time I'd replace all hoses (heater too), belts, glow plugs and filters. Oil too of course, while in there I'd also take a look at the core plugs and install a block heater but that's cause I'm in NY...

Summit racing has a lock up kit that's much MUCH better than a hot switch, cost is about a hundred bucks and make the TC lock up automatically and then uses a cruise control brake switch to unlock. It's all automatic and you'll never forget to unlock it burn up the TC or stall the engine.

I seem to remember some GM trucks that didn't have a lock strip, no idea if it was factory(doubt it was). sorry I can't help more.

Before you pull that "bad" engine check and make sure it really is bad. My son picked up 1009 that the engine was "locked up", the problem was the dumb previous owner tried to start it useing 12 volts instead of 24v of course it didn't work so my son ended up with a good running engine with...

When I had my body shop open I did lots of pinch weld repairs and then the glass guys came out to do the install. The actaul glass reeplacement time just wasn't worth it to me to do. Oh yeah the OP's question, Any glass shop can order it or if you have a LKQ (Like Kind Quality) parts supplier...