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I generally tighten most fasteners until they start turning freely, then back off half a turn. You may want to use less torque.

If you find the entire loader with a bucket, which is probably far more likely, I'd be interested in the loader part.

Meh, it wouldn't cost that much. The rodents would chew the cord off fairly soon. And the the Webasto would really come in handy.

Dang it. I just knew ​I should've built the carport somewhere close to an outlet. Guess I could use a generator instead.

I thought I had that part licked, too but maybe it's time to give it another checkup. A quick push on the primer pump will tell part of the story. If you recall, I temporarily ran an electric pump on the Summer SEE, which had both icky "fuel" and leakage issues. As it turned out, placed right...

Guess I should try giving the pump a few strokes before starting the Winter SEE next time. For some reason, the last two times I've started it, it cranks for quite a while before firing up. Of course, I may have used up the ether canister by now. With lows below zero these days, it could use...

Finally got enough snow to wake the snow blower up from its slumber. If you think visibility can be bad in a SEE, try driving through a homemade blizzard.

Great! TMs are knowledge, and knowledge is power. And SEEs could use more power...or better yet, lower gearing. Happy New Year everybody!

I'd go with a bit of safety margin on the pressure, as if the regulator would quit working. Almost any hose with the correct pressure rating would have good abrasion resistance, and as long as the ID is the same or larger than the stock tubing, it should work fine, I'd think. If/when that day...

Is there any reason not to use a suitable hose instead?

Finally got the Pewag chains cut down and installed on the rear of the Winter SEE. It took a fair amount of time to figure out how much and where to shorten the inside. Also, some time went to get the geometry for the tensioner somewhat right with the smaller diameter tire. It was well worth...

It's probably a good thing that there often isn't enough space for an adjustable wrench. That forces people to use the correct tool for the job, in turn lessening the odds of rounding the hex parts and/or breaking things.

Good, that gives you more options to plug in an air hose. Taking fittings apart, at least partially, makes it easy to find out how far the pressure does travel. Or doesn't.

Uh, oh. Mine's sitting with the outriggers chained together. Luckily, the backhoe is still attached to the SEE. Oh, and not to rub it in, rtrask, but when I got in my Winter SEE today it still showed 60 psi, after a month or so. And that's with the original drain valves.

Ron, you'll save on cold starts, fuel, and frustration by feeding the SEE air pressure from an external source. Easiest to use the glad hands. Second best is to turn the engine off and then listen for leaks. They'd have to be substantial to be louder than the engine. That the compressor's...

When I had fuel line problems, being lazy I just sat in the seat and sprayed starting fluid into the bottom of the cover on top. Then kept squirting as needed until the fuel system took over. One thing I've never tried is giving it more throttle than just over idle. Oh, and I do use anti gel.

At least you won't have to worry about the Gov-Lok blowing up...again.

It's better to be lucky than good, Speedwoble. My first SEE was clean and well equipped, but also pricey. The second one, meant to be a parts car, was quite cheap and turned out to be even better in many ways. Between the two, I could've almost bought one from C&C. Since I have different uses...

Hey, I'm down to a mere five, after having sold a SEE. Which I kind of regret. And the one FLU I would consider selling is not a SEE, but it would be expensive.

Well, in your case it's the seal for the rod that's endangered, and the piston has to come off to replace that one. And since the rod has to be replaced anyway, yes, you might as well replace them all.