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Nice! That is the way I like to do it too. I like having easy access to the rear gate.

In a stock system without our coolant upgrade kits, heater full on, fill the system, run the truck with the radiator cap off of the overflow for a few mins, top it back off, and drive the truck. There is going to be air in the heads, especially at the back. In fact we have found that the pumps...

You might have to build a jig to allow for you to precision drill it out and not hurt the threads. Bad situation for sure.

Except in this case the bucket off the ground to aid in the over-center function. For actual work the bucket should be on the ground to stabilize.

Looking good!

I second the Marvel Oil comment. The issue with most military equipment is that it has been run on JP8, Jet-A and other mixes are a very dry diesel which takes its toll on pumps. The Marvel really helps to lubricate the pump. Alternatively Bio-Diesel is very lubricating if your fuel system...

Just want to add that if you are going to be banging on it, first thread on the nut with some gap left for it to loosen up. The nut head is a bigger target and can help you use a bigger dead blow hammer. The bigger the hammer the better this goes. Also securing the hub assembly so it cant...

Are those the same size? They look taller and wider?

I will add that having the stabilizer legs down all the way so the rear is lifted all the way up and the front loader off the ground too so the nose is dipped helps if your boom is a little weak. Worst case go park nose down on a small hill.

Weld it...

As mentioned, the big culprits are the thermostat, Cadillac valve, and dirty coolant. Whenever to change the coolant a thorough flushing is very important as field top offs were often with very dirty water. Also with trucks that were forded, the radiators get very clogged up and spraying water...

We have a blog coming out shortly all about this issue. We have a nice, cheap, bolt-on fix for this coming shortly too :)

That is a CUCV Hybrid kit. Send me a PM with your name so I can find your order. We need to hey you the correct kit ASAP!

The attachment does not work but if you have a HMMWV then you should have the return as part of the kit. It sounds like you may have ordered a civilian kit? Where did you buy the kit, on our site or EBAY? PM me and I will look up your order to see what you got.

The fan might be drawing too much load and popping the breaker. You might want to spin it by hand and make sure it is not full of debris. Trucks that have spent a lot of time under water tend to have this issue.

Yes a HMMWV can go 70MPH and more safely if properly setup to do so. There is NOTHING specifically limiting a stock HMMWV to 55MPH either but that the military wanted it that way (max convoy speed). The RPM limit is still able to go much higher and the suspension etc. is also not a limiting...

Here is a link to detailed information about the flow of coolant in these blocks. https://paradoxbydesign.com/blogs/news/the-humvee-diesel-engine-cooling-paradox One of the benefits of these kits is the more rapid heat up of the heater core. We do not recommend running the heater off the rear...

Sounds definitely like a bad or floating fuel pump. Floaters are where the pump shaft binds in the bore or the pump return is not working well. Either case needs at least the pump removed to take a look.

In stock form you have forward hydraulic control in the cab only. That being said you can route hydraulic controls anywhere you want with enough time and money. The transmission is a 4spd with two fwd speed ranges and one rear speed range so 8 fwd speeds and 4 rwd speeds. So like a tractor...

There are also several 'universal' tanks that will work too. You can just pump them into the main tank.