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Tell Justin hey.

There were actually quite a few engines dressed like that, Titanium Black engine and Apex red valve cover, installed in motorhomes from the factory. When they were installed so you could see the engine, they looked cool if maintained.

Cummins makes a cleaner that works very good... https://cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/MB10106.pdf If you have a grey haze and highr than normal EGT, there might be one or more with weak springs. Have them rebuilt or just exchange them. These guys do a good job...

Bartering, I love it!

That might be a good option. We have all the TMs, but if there was a good complete unit, that would be a quicker option and the trans could be taken apart and repaired casually. Thanks for the tip!

I'll fire off a PM to him, thanks.

As long as there will be no reverse involved, See you in a month!

We have a couple of M60s at the museum, one is in need of a starter, that will happen after retirement, and the other is a runner, well it least WAS until last month. The rt brake got stuck in park. Found the MC would not build the necessary 750-950 PSI to release the PB. Rebuilt it, got...

Shuts off like no go juice. When it shuts down, turn the manual knob in and see if it starts. If so, time for a FSOV.

Sucking air will cause a slow shut down, the rpm will surge and the idle gets real low, then it dies. If it is idling normally and dies like you shut the key off, it is either being told to turn off, like maybe the PCB or a loose connection in the ignition circuit, the FSOV on the pump is not...

The multi is a dry liner engine, SCA's kinda don't matter for the cavitation issue, but a low silicate antifreeze is good so you don't wipe out wp seals.

They work well on P pumped engines, will not work on yours....unless you have installed a P pump.

Yup, they are pretty much same-same

Just make sure you get an o-ring that the low sulfur fuel won't attack, viton or I believe buna-n. Just a plain rubber o-ring might not like dieselgas

Its called the fuel jumper. The screws can be very tight, use a bolsterd screw driver with a good flat blade, not all worn out, to get them out.

No, never worked on one, Just a bumpkin behind a keyboard. I just read alot

Wash it off, let it idle and just for a moment, stick your finger in the blow-by tube, the leak will show up ricky ticky. By a moment I mean 5 second bursts. Plug the hole, count 1-2-3-4-5, unplug the hole, repeat as necessary.

Common leaks are the front cover....there is a new style that you should put on, don't have to, but they are prone to cracking at the radius where the mount flange bends to the actual cover, mostly around the bolt holes. Also, the gear housing will break if the rear bottom compressor support...

Sorry, i'll play nice. Done.

Modern diesel engine DO put unburnt fuel directly into the exhaust, be it into the pipe just past the outlet of the turbo via separate injector or via 5th injection (dosing) cycle when the exhaust valve is open and evacuating the cylinder of the burnt gasses, That is how the catalyst starts the...