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I'm drawing a blank but I'm fairly certain they're 4" backspacing. 8" width and fairly certain it's smack dab in the middle. I measured them a while back trying to figure out the backspacing I'd need to get the wheels close to stock width up front. I ended up with 4.5" backspacing with the new...

Here are a few pictures of mine back when it had the 2" lift and 33/12.5/15 generals on stock wheels.

How much boost do you make with the banks kit?

I ran that size on stock wheels without issue. I also have a 2" lift. The lift is unnecessary for the size tire but my suspension was in poor shape and stock replacement suspension is hard to come by from a quality company. As far as spacers go, I wouldn't. A 12.5" tire will widen your look.

I adjusted my switches to your settings per this thread and my tach no longer moves. I had mine set at OFF ON OFF I think I'll try putting it back to my setting and then trying to use the adjustment screw.

3.73's and 315/75/16 tires which I think measure 34.6

Do you happen to know what the change is with the box? I need to adjust mine in my m1009 after the axle swap and 35" tires.

FYI that's about a $8 setup at a bike shop

Just to be clear, is this the place in question? http://www.dcpcart.com/OScart/

There are other places to buy transmissions other than a junkyard. That's actually the last place I'd go for something I want to work.

Piecing together will cost more than $2k? I spent $600 on parts and another $200 on odds and ends. You're doing it wrong if you hit $2k. You can buy a complete running 6.5 for less

I'm digging in and replacing the water pump and timing cover gaskets. Also got a new balancer since the old one is looking a bit dried out. Had to take a break to go borrow a puller.

Youre gaining reliability with an sm465 and a few hundred less rpm at cruising. you people are also under the assumption a 4l80e is going to need a rebuild when there are plenty to be had in good working order.

All things that really aren't that much work. I have custom driveshafts already and a great driveshaft shop that doesn't charge much. The controller is really the only big expense other than the trans. Like it was stated I think under $2k is very doable. Or spend that on an nv4500, or go dirt...

I used an aftermarket crossover and downpipe with modifications. I also kept my drivers manifold and used the 6.5 passenger manifold.

Whenever the th400 goes in mine I'd probably end up going nv4500 if I can swing it. I guess if I was staying auto I'd much rather go 4l80.

I used the the one that came on my turbo. I split the can, threaded the rod and then used a washer and lock nut to tension the spring for more boost. Its my understanding that not all of them have springs in them and I'm unsure what years have them and which don't.

I have this gauge and it goes dead over 2k and then as soon as the rpm is under 2k it reads again. I'm at a loss but I'm going to compare to your dip switch settings.

I used to have mine on the stock carrier in my m1009 but now it's just laying in the back till I make a spacer/adapter for the larger tire.

Just find a rolled over 1 ton truck for cheap. That's how I got my d60/14ff :lol: