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I got my M1031 at the shop now. I will be doing a ton of maintenance along with a 4" lift install and 37's. When it's up on the lift, I am going to pull the modulator and governor to see if something bad comes up with either one.

Not to be a naysayer because I dig your setup but I'm questioning the structural integrity of the stock bumper being used for a hawse/fairlead support.

I'm assuming the winch plate bolts from the top down onto the upper portion of the c channel frame? Also, your front part of the C channel is Tucked right behind the bumper for your fairlead mount?

Any photos of the winch mount itself? This is exactly what I'm looking for and need ideas for a mount. The 4wheel magazine build has the same thing but still lacks a good photo of just the plate.

Should be a standard Spicer driveline part anu driveshaft shop can get. I personally use Tom Woods or call Jesse at High Angle Driveline. Both of them have knockout service and are great guys to deal with. Most guys on Pirate4x4, ColoradoK5, and other forums use them. If you want used, pretty...

Can't view the pictures but I'm on a mobile browser so that may be it. Congrats on the M1031 purchase, I got mine a few weeks ago. Careful, the virus spreads quick. I already have military 37's mounted up and my 4" lift kit just came in. There is no cure!!!

Agreed, not cool with running illegal wattage. I am not Corey Hart and I do not wear my sunglasses at night... Stick with regular wattage (keeps wiring cool too) and use your high beam circuit to trigger a relay for bright auxiliary driving lights if you need some super candlepower.

My alternator wasn't charging due to a bad connection on the twist bulb. After some cleaning and filing, the lights comes on when the key is in the on position and goes out after starting like designed. I think I am going to replace my light bulb bases to keep any connection issues at bay...

Is the pump an auxiliary boost pump feeding the pump on the engine block or standalone? Wonder if you can use this inline with the engine pump as a backup or cold start pump.

You may just have really high line pressure which could be the valve in the oil pump or valvebody. If line pressure is too high, all other pressures like governor or modulator will be off. The TH400 is pretty stout. Not the best transmission as far as gear ratios are concerned but still good...

I still do not understand why it basically shifts at redline no matter how much vacuum is at the modulator or if the downshift solenoid is used. I don't have a tach but my online gearing calculator is showing shift points at 3400-3600 rpms. I will go through the correct regulator adjustment...

My new red stripe modulator didn't fit, the OD was slightly larger than the one that came out...not sure why but couldn't install it. It's an ATP unit I bought from RockAuto. Either way, the original one in the truck has a dry vacuum line. I also pumped it up with a vacuum pump. It holds and...

Since my M1031 came home and I got it running, the trans has been doing a classic late shift issue. Now that my 6.2 is running good, I've started the diagnosis on it. First road test, it was shifting at 37mph and 50 mph. I had only 5" of vacuum at the modulator. I fixed some vacuum lines and...

130HP stock but some tweaks to the IP, waste gate, and adding an intercooler brings up higher for cheap coin compaired to modding a 6.2 That isn't even touching the turbo, injectors, etc. Just my opinion but I would be up for just a straight up 4BT or Isuzu swap before trying to do any serious...

I think the 6.2 falls into the category of turd polishing as well. In stock form, it os adequate for what it is and what it does. When you want more from it, it takes exponentially more dollars than what you get out of it. By the time you tweak it, you could have just started with something...

Rental trailer plus insurance... Too many unknowns for flat towing. Play the "what if" game... What if the fluids aren't full What if the driveshaft has bad ujoints What if one of the brakes are locked up etc. etc. etc. Trailering means no worries the whole ride home.

Most of the time, the only good heavy duty part out of a 3/4 ton burb is the 4L80E from the 91 model. All others have standard fare TH400 if you want a 3 speed auto. The axle are generally worthless. You are much better holding out for a K30, that is the only way to score full one ton running...

Beware that all 3/4 ton trucks including Subs had 8 lug 10 bolts, no sub ever got a Dana 60.

Too much money. You could get a 14 bolt ff with 4:10's for $100 to $200 depending on condition, a complete reman 700r4 for $1000 to $1200 depending on if you get a new torque converter and lock up solenoid, and a matching 8 lug 10 bolt for free because everyone wanting a Dana 60 would give it...

Amazon.com is your friend, being able to see customer feedback really helps when purchasing "questionable" electronics. Unless you need a full head unit, I'm a big fan of just using an amp stashed under the seat somewhere running to my iPod. Everything is hidden and the most expensive piece...