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Erik's does. Brake Light Air Operated Switch Upgrade Kit For M35A2, 12255668

Installed the muffler on Sunday. The hardest part (emotionally) was cutting the J-pipe. I just hate doing stuff like that ("destroying" an original part). The up-side is how easily the muffler tucks behind the heat shield. It all received a new coat of paint as well. I was almost worried about...

Amen to that. Oftentimes, people use the "rugged military construction" as an explanation that careful-to-anal PM is unnecessary; things will still work without the required maintenance. The military wants "rugged" in the sense of "will survive the mission, even if abused and not maintained"...

I agree with Clinto; paid 65 and shipping a few weeks ago for a NOS set. However, if you have a clutch/brake shop in the area, it is worth the while to ask what they charge to re-line your original shoes.

YES, WHEN THEY WERE NEW or constantly being rebuilt on schedule. Fact is, that with 35+ year old trucks that often DO NOT get the care and maintenance they got in an environment where time, parts expense and manpower did not matter, there are trucks out there - and it may not be yours - that...

You did a good job! Can you elaborate on the composite decking material that you used to re-do the troop seats and head rack? Brand, dimensions, price?

added update in original post

"Warm", where you can put your hand over the hub and leave it there, is ok. "Hot", where your hand is uncomfortable with the temperature, is not ok. If too hot, check for dragging brakes or axle nut preload too high.

Troop seats - stuck piece of wood **solution** (for update, see below) I have one piece of old, wooden cargo bow upright stuck in the troop seat square pipe. Soldier A had left it there and the wood got wet, swelled up and got stuck. Eventually, someone broke the upright off. I need to remove...

I know that the "standard" military method was to drill holes in the top of the bumper and use a threaded rod with two nuts to lock it into place. I did not want to do this, because - the threaded rod will eventually fail due to vibration - the threaded rod is metal and bends and may cause...

My largest piece of advice is to thoroughly inspect all flex lines and steel lines beforehand. NOW is the time to replace brake stuff in one shot. Work as cleanly as you can before you get to actually disconnecting/reconnecting hydraulics (use brake cleaner liberally to clean away gunk and...

I recovered mine approx. 1000 miles in 2.5 days. That was cool in its own way. Now I drive it regularly and I find that I like driving Queen Lola the most on rural side roads. I somehow do not enjoy the steady high-rpm run on a rural highway...a little dull, IMHO. 2 hours on narrow, winding...

Chuck, I think what he is saying is that in other jusrisdictions, even the air brakes are "multi-circuit". He describes the multl-circuit protection valve which basically isolates any air brake circuit that leaks. That way, you likely have some service brakes left and do not immediately default...

An old-time truck mechanic I know surface cleans the brake shoes and then puts them into the oven to "bake out" the oil. It appears to be working, but you may require a very understanding wife. I just replaced mine. For what they cost I figured I tear into the brakes and have peace of mind.

Check fuel line for crushed areas, especially in front of axle/under radiator.

It just proves that there is no such thing as paranoia when it comes to single circuit brakes. Going all out in checking, maintaining and repairing them is just common sense. I replaced the parking brake shoes, parking brake cable and handle, adjusted as per TM and tested the function as an...

I add to that: You have the wheels and hubs off at this time and opened up the brake system. Given the price of DOT5 (and even DOT3) you may want, at this time - check the flexible brake lines; replace if brittle, chafed or rock hard - check the rigid brake lines for crushed areas, kinks...

Also, do NOT operate the brake pedal while the pressure bleeder is connected and pressurized. I recommend using the pressure bleeder with the truck engine off and the air tanks drained, to avoid accidental brake pedal action.

I am sorry for your injuries, but glad that you can drive and enjoy your truck. You may want to look at the TM 9-2320-209-20-3-2 and print chapters 14-8 14-9 and 14-10!

Jeffhuey, I definitely recommend to jump the cliff and give it a try yourself. It is not "hard" or "complicated", and the only special tool you need is a 3inch socket for the axle nut (for about $25). If you do not yet have a beefy axle stand and a jack, then you are asking for trouble any time...