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Ah, you don't need CAD skills to build a good rollcage. You just need to know what you're doing. The only reason I was thinking that it might be cool to post CAD blueprint to share, would be so that people could download them and have local fabricators bend tubing (since not many people have...

That's a good idea. I think I'm going to try to get my hands on a whole extra wheel hub, spindle (front) and brake assembly, just so I'll have a spare.

I know. That's why I'm doing all this preventative maintenance now. I'll be putting a lot more miles on this rig than most MV's see in retirement (I've already put over 4,000 miles on it since I bought this truck from Hammer in January) because I'm LIVING in this M109 and I'm towing a 6,000lb...

Thanks for the input guys. I've already got the rears all put back together, so I'll probably just order new pads. Only bummer (aside from the $) is that I'll have to leave the truck up on jackstands until the new pads get here. Argh. tiger, those races are only showing those marks on that one...

I've got the rear axles rebuilt. Flipped the hubs, and replaced all the seals and wheel cylinders. Bearings, brake pads and drums were all in excellent condition. The front axle isn't in great shape though. No water or rust inside the knuckles, but the bearing races have some wear-marks on them...

Thanks for the write-up. I'm rebuilding my front axle right now and was wondering about those inner seal. Off to find a slide-hammer...

I've thought a bit about this. In addition to putting rollcages in all of my off-road vehicles, I'm the type of person that would put a rollcage in a sedan, minivan, or just about anything else on four wheels. Think about the fantastic crashes we've seen racecar drivers walk away from, and then...

If you have one of those mounted up front, I'd love to see a picture that shows how far out the wheel/tire sits in relation to the fender. I'm guessing they'll stick out a lil more than the wheels that have flat plates bolted/welded directly to the wheel halves, huh?

OK. For future reference, these are the verified NAPA numbers for the wheel studs and lug nuts. LH Studs: 641-1211 RH Studs: 641-1210 LH Nuts: 641-2007 RH Nuts: 641-2006

Well, I was really tempted to go all-out and put some 395's under it, but between my M109 the trailer I haul behind it, I figured that the 11.00's would be a better (more practical) choice. I was originally looking for 14.5's, but they're really hard to find and after looking into it, the...

Thanks donk. I know that on smaller trucks, we don't like to run wide rims because the tires are more prone to slipping off the bead, and the sidewalls are more more vulnerable. But I guess that wouldn't be a problem if I ran inserts in those wheels, huh? Maybe I ought to get my hands on one...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/448393-post15.html

Nice welds donkdonk!

Herro? Anybody? I'd like to find a set of beadlocked wheels that I could run without tubes, in a width that would work with these tires, singled-out. I guess that's somewhere around 8". I know about the Canadian wheels, but those track really narrow, like our stock wheels, right?

Thanks. And yeah, that's what I was asking about (having to replace a damaged stud).

How wide are the A3 wheels?

Finally found a recommended rim width for those T-831's (8"). How wide are the HEMTT's? 10"?

Are you talking about state inspectors?

I think what's more important is the location of the wheel-stud holes, relative to one another. If those are off, lugnuts aren't going to stay tight. But that's the thing, by whatever process these are made, assuming it's automated, I don't think holding acceptable tolerances should be much of a...

Thanks for the tip. Gotta do that tomorrow.