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I looked at the screenshots of the voltage screens...those are nice to have...I assume they're in the house so you can see what's going on...I know you said random times it bogs over 40 amps...the screen shows you're at 240 volts at 13,500 kw at 56 amps...any chance it's hitting overload and...

I have had decent success in removing those with a chain wrench and small car floor jack...the one is for trains which is way to much but the other is a standard blue point that's about 2 foot long and grabs like crazy and is easy to control...I leave about 5 to 8 inches of the ground rod above...

I just looked at both of mine, truck and blazer...they have the same color wire going to the fuse block...I took a pic and pulled it with my knife so you can see which one it goes to the solenoid...I've pulled these ends out of the fuse box before to replace ends but not sure where to get those...

Well...my 1008 and 9 both have just one little wire coming off of them...the other is the battery wire which is a 2 gauge wire...I just did the blazer wire the other day that connected to the solenoid...it goes up through the harness over the back of the engine to the fuse block under the brake...

I thought it was a diode but couldn't remember for what! The WIF light does work now so it's probably ok then right! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Been an ok week getting a few small things done on both Ms right now...today is very rainy though so not much will get done today...the blazer got new eyelit ends crimped on so the original style clamps could be put on with the covers...the blazer got a harness donation from the one left in the...

I think he's referring to phenolic pistons that are used in calipers...technically plastic just a designed material for caliper pistons.

So new calipers locked up in 5 or so years?...nuts! I'm assuming you popped the bleeder loose or cracked the line to see if the pistons can be pushed back in...my guess is the pistons rusted in place...what brake fluid did you use? Some brake fluids need changed more than others...I'd guess dot...

What I did was find the parts and illustration book and downloaded it...it's 491 pages...half way down it starts to show pics...it has a pic of the truck on the front 84-87 on it...it might be in the tm section of this site too...it has every part blown up in sections with every part number for...

I just rebuilt mine last night...very easy to do...only suggest taking a pic of the inside and out just so you don't second guess yourself!! The kits are very complete and both of mine now work great.

Thanks! I got the projects with these 2...most is getting it to not break as much as possible since these sat so much...I got the front and rear pans from a seller on Ebay hope I am allowed to post who but it was classicparts4u is the store name...it took several weeks to get them and they...

So I got both alternators rebuilt, new harmonic balancer, crank seal and front pulley installed today...was a blast...the balancer went on and off no problem...I have both puller and install tools so it goes very fast...balancer was shot and there's no way I could see that from under the...

You have great weather for it today!! Let the lawn grow and get that paint done...get more chickens!! or a goat.

Found one more pic on page 301 that shows the ac compressor on the drivers side...one note as well they have different power steering and water pump pulleys to do the 2 belt drive to the ac compressor...I am not sure how that would work since I know the compressor you'd get from Nostalgia will...

Found it...page 309 in the parts and illustration catalog...it shows all the part numbers you need to put the alts on the passenger side...if you can find them...finding gm brackets to fit the compressor on the passenger side should be able to be found or just make some...use the lower alt...

The 200 amp setup has both alternators on the drivers side...I found that looking through the tm on the truck scouring for part numbers!!...you can see how the mounts work from that setup and then put the compressor on the drivers side by itself...I have no idea if the alts will interfere with...

That's a great idea!! I was wondering how I'd get the nut inside since I can't reach up in there! What's one more hole really!! It has a plate welded to the body then the stud welded to it...I very happy that I have so many ways to make metal do what I need it to...torch, mig, press etc...I...

put me on the list for the next one...I have 2 cucvs but both are not ready for much but running yard art right now...should have the 1008 done this month and the 1009 by the end of the year...I don't live far and have been there a few times...great place...the coal mine is fun too next door.

I bet it would be hard to change one that's welded together already but these are kits that are not welded yet...would have to press bend the top bar and angle cut the middle ones to get the bend...the 2 mounts wouldn't take much to make since they are straight parts of steel.

yes it is the back of the door latch, completely blown out...hinges are fine but the striker is welded in place with a plate under it...probably exploded the first time they closed it.