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Great idea. Typo? https://www.theoringstore.com/? I also get o-rings from McMaster.com All the best, 2PbFeet

@jmenende congratulations on finding the culprit! +1 on a loose connection or poorly made crimp. Personally, running down suspicious crimps is a personal favorite, (Not!!), but since @jmenende has one, I would be inclined to assume the worst, and check the crimping and terminal connections of...

+1 on using a lubricity additive for all ULSD in older engines.

Yes, the CB is either open or closed, but in going from closed to open, how much current is it drawing? I.e. does it work, or is it leaking out at a low current? To post video, reread the instructions above; I am sorry that it wasn't clear. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Post a video to any of the supported sites (look at the three dots and down arrow on the compose/reply header bar, and then click on "media" that then lists which sites are supported. Put a video there and link using the media button). Have you considered measuring the current through CB1 with...

Not to be a wet blanket, but Fernco's list of compatible fluids lists both kerosene and gasoline as "Not Recommended". https://www.fernco.com/technical/materials/acid-resist-chart Silicone is not generally compatible with diesel either. Buna-N or nitrile hose should be generally compatible...

Plus the MOV mod as well, which is also good. @e_beauregard @kloppk is much more of an expert than I am, but I associate unstable voltages with two things; a) poor connections/failing insulation, or b) failing components. I asked about humidity and water, because damp can exacerbate...

How often do you use this unit? What voltage regulator do you have, and have my of the fuse/MOV modifications been done? Is this warming up under a load? How dry is your storage area? (AC or no AC? Rain exposure? Condensation exposure?) How clean are your switches? (When was the last time you...

Slip up during the original assembly of the switch, or a partial disassembly by a curious person who did not realize the chaos that can ensue when opening a switch like this up, or... As @Ray70 wrote, it is easy and perhaps safest to put a jumper in if needed, but I would probe first and then...

If you (@sfus2645) write @Poccur in a post, he will get an alert that someone mentioned him in a post. He is an amazing source of knowledge on these units as far as I can tell. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Nice score on the trailer! Thanks for sharing the pictures and story. Personally, I would be careful of putting that much weight up high. I've seen too many tow vehicles rolled because of a high loaded trailer that tipped, and not by a lot of weight. 2-300 extra pounds eight feet up, and that's...

+1 on moving the tank lower, and strapping it down, even though it eats up some precious back yard space. Puget Sound would qualify as a active seismic zone in my book. I would also think about secondary containment, as remediation for leaks is pricey. A guy I know had a $100k bill for a 50...

Glad to see that you have the injection pump apparently free, and the safe rescue and liberation of the allen wrench, though I have to say "Ouch!". That looked like a painful lesson for dropping an allen wrench. Thanks for sharing. All the best, 2Pbfeet

If it were me, since this is a unit with an unknown history, I would change the oil and oil filter. I would then drain the diesel, start with clean fuel, add a hefty dose of SeaFoam to the fuel, bleed the fuel lines to the injectors, and try again. White smoke can mean a blown head gasket, bad...

I would not overlook what a local radiator shop can do. As these are left hand double pass radiators with a right hand 45 degree fill, it is not exactly a common design. I've never seen an exact drop in. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Yes, there is a reason why you should not connect a soft start unit directly in to the generator. The soft start units need to be wired directly to the start windings on the motor, and most soft start units include a bit of optimization for the particular motor that they are connected to. (Take...

Soft starts are definitely usable, given the size of your capacitor start motors, probably a cost effective way to go. VFDs do much better starting induction motors, but yes, you can certainly get them for single phase in/out. All the best, 2Pbfeet

In rush can last a fraction of a cycle to several cycles, and most DVMs do not capture all of it. So, I would regard the 38A as a lower bound. Basically, I suspect that you probably need a soft start or a VFD on that motor. As @Scoobyshep wrote, in rush currents can easily be 5-10X FLA, which...

Congratulations on persevering and getting it running beautifully! I've only seen it on bigger units that were under loaded for long periods of time. I've noticed that the carbon seems to come out more easily if the loading during "burn out" is a bit variable until the exhaust system is mostly...

What do you (did you?) need? Your later posts sound like you have things sorted. BTW: if you mean the metal that sticks out at joins in moulds for castings, I think that the word you might be looking for is "flash" or "rat tails"; https://www.rapiddirect.com/blog/17-types-of-casting-defects/...