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Bummer about the vibrations. It sounds like the generator is using the concrete pad as tamper. what kind of soil do you have? If the soil compacts it may get a little better. Dumb question, but is the vbration in the kitchen from the soil, or through the air? My '803 puts out a pretty...
@DD58 Congratulations on your kid to be!
I love those old Dodge Powerwagons. They are pretty darn amazing. I got to take a pair somewhere quite special many moons ago. Given this project, I am sure that you will find a suitable project with your kid to be in the future.
Nice battery set up...
@Sidis8 I tend to agree with the other folks that debris is a more likely cause than a crack. Brake cleaner, and brushes help.
I would say that I have found more than a few extra copper washers lurking at the bottom of injector ports pretending to be part of the head. I sometimes think some...
I would put hardware cloth on the bottom one especially. Rodents can do so much damage so quickly. I used stainless steel safety wire into the wire mesh and up around each of the four tabs that hold the acoustic foam plate up. If you bend a small "U", it is easy to thread the wire down and back...
It could also just be old fuel. Two thumbs up on keeping some SeaFoam in as the unit has been sitting around for awhile, and who knows what is stuck where. If it were me, I would have siphoned out the old fuel, changed the fuel filters, and tried it with fresh fuel as you load it up to break it...
Sorry about the meds.
Can you explain what is wrong? E.g. two dead batteries, or batteries ok, but it won't crank, never has started...?
All the best,
2Pbfeet
@FarmingSmallKubota Congratulations on a great score! My bet is that with a little sleuthing you can find similar performance fans on any of the major sites.
With that many fans and that age, I would be tempted to buy a few in advance. 30 year old muffin fans often have gravel like grease in...
I used to use Techron D a fair amount. After some problem engines not getting especially better, I found had more luck with SeaFoam, but I really think it depends on what your particular engine is dealing with. PEA (PolyEther Amine, not what the author above claims in the link above), is a fine...
SI-1 is gasoline only.
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/SI-1_PROD_INFO.pdf
+1 on SeaFoam, and also Optilube Summer+ for lubricity. Many of these engines were not designed for ULSD, and benefit from additional lubricity additives to modern fuel to make up for the loss of sulfur...
With "new to me" equipment, you never quite know what happened. The MEP-803A was manufactured in '06, and the oil filter was changed last year at a little over 22 hours. So I drained the coolant, which looked ugly, green/orange and cloudy. (No photo) I got 5 quarts out, so I felt pretty good...
High frequency arc starts help, but copper is pretty easy; it just sucks heat out. I would try a few practice runs on a similar sized wire first. If your brazing rods need flux, I would use a non corrosive flux given how close this is to electrical parts that might care...
FWIW...
Sorry!
Local welding shop? Easy to do with a torch, or better yet a TIG welder. It might have been silver soldered. (High melting point and high conductivity.)
I would be tempted to replace the wire if you can get to the other end...
All the best,
2Pbfeet
Yes, Lee looks like it could be a doozy, and might graze New England. Stay safe!
I would be curious how the deadening mat changes the dB, and the pitch.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
I got mine from McMaster, because I wanted the EPDM for ozone and diesel resistance. I'm sure that the Yanmar versions are better, but my local Yanmar is a little...difficult. I bought some of the SBR versions a few years back and they did not last, at least for me.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
Sweet! You must be very happy.
I admit to a small smile when I saw the Racor and its mounting. I really like them. They just work.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
In the Yanmar parts manual that I have, there is a copper washer, and it is called out as a nozzle spacer. In the manual that @Guyfang posted, it is part number 114295-11470 , in figure 2, part 16. I believe that it comes in a range of thicknesses from 0.3mm to 1.5mm, and the factory...
Thanks for posting the video.
Personally, I prefer to finish bleeding all the air at the injector, but that's just me. In my experience, those engines are very sensitive to any residual air in the high pressure line, and don't have much power or stability until the air clears the high pressure...
I have to say that the first upper photo in post #8, the upper left corner looks like that corner of the board sat in salt water for a bit, and those two capacitors at the top look a little "droopy" like they might have melted a bit. Definitely armchair quarterbacking. I have brought back a few...
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