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sorry. I forgot the part about cutting the 4 nubs off the bottom of the plastic case.
thanks for reminder eldgenb!
the big 8's have 1/2 the connections to worry about. another plus for using them.
I would have used the 8's but i needed them right away and they were not in stock so i ended...
gimp, this started life as a M820. I moved the axles to the rear and added on to the fish plate to run it back to the rear suspension. its about 48" longer wheelbase than my 819.
my extra 9513 is just an rto.
the distance between us makes the trade not so good. shipping would kill the deal.
even tho the pusher would look great on my stretch truck!
I think I have enough wheelbase.
well - I have a couple of options.
1693 CAT
9513 fuller
350 Cummins
I like the older stuff that is serviceable by a dummy like me. with a little help from my friends.
going into my stretch 5 ton.
I never can leave things alone.
the real reason is -- I just want...
this would sure look better. but I think before I went thru that amout of work i would swap out the steer axle with a non driven one.
your idea is a good one but as usual im up against a time frame.
after rereading this post I think you may have confused what my thoughts are.
the only gussets Im talking about would be on the bottom of the plate that covers the housing hole. prob over kill all the way.
Not planning on anything leaving the ground. been there done that.
Im just over building/thinking the missing chunk thing from a structural point of veiw.
no great scheme just a repower of a five ton that can use a few more ponys between the fenders and a little more top end without bouncing...
I was thinking the same way. 1/2 plate with gussets on the bottom/inside.
pull the axles and run it. this seems easier than swapping the whole thing out for a non driven axle. partly because i dont have a donor non driven axle.
this project will be transfer case delete and trans will be...
I may use the front axle as a non driven axle. and I will need the clearance for the bottom of the pan for a repower.
the reason for leaving the axle in and just gutting it will save a bunch of work with the steering and such.
thats my question--- will it flex with the chunk removed? I know its a very thick housing but what I didnt know is whether or not it would flex with the chunk removed. Im sure the chunk provides some strenth to the housing.
I may need to gut a 5 ton front axle housing. I wonder how much the drop in chunk adds to the strenth of the housing?
I will prob need to pull the chunk and cover the hole with a plate.
the last thing i want is to fold the front axle up while going down the road!
maybe my concern about...
I dont know anything about the part #s but when I put the HEMMT wheels on my M819 the rear studs were plenty long and the front were to short.
I replaced them with longer studs rather than play with the thimble method.
It may work fine that way but I didnt want to take the chance.
Nice addition to your collection.
I had the same line made for one of mine and the original fittting was a strange one. different flare and i would not seal. chased that for an hour before discovering the real issue.
around 285. and thats measured from the correct points for a tandem.
OSO your kinda right but its not as bad (i dont think) as it would seem.
it takes a little more thought when running in congestion but that goes without saying. It rides better than my M819 because of the xtra length...
worked out just as i planned. the right side air cleaner is completly usable.
currently the air intake is terminated 7 or 8 inches inside the side panel.
they will both be used when motor in this truck grows up.
edit ---oops- thought i loaded a pic with both aircleaners newly installed.
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