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We are going to towbar it to the dyno. So the first time it will fire up is on the dyno. We can even get the rollers spinning ahead of time so soon as it fires, its game on. Maybe when it is running the initial lighter load, I can check for leaks then.
So what was the idea behind how the TM...
I like this idea. However you do it, make sure there the fan can always come on when the temp switch calls for it, regardless of how you have your valves set or have it plumbed. Not saying you are stupid or anything like that, its just nice making it so you never have to worry about "did i turn...
Exactly. If worse came to worse, My M109A3 needs new turbo seals, so I would just swap the turbo into that truck if this engine turns out to be a flop. Not making any decisions until I see how this thing runs first. I'm trying to stay positive and still keep a sense of humor about this project...
I saw them in a TM somewhere and I thought it was under deuce stuff. I can't remember now. I might have posted something earlier in this thread. It all seems like a blur to me now.
When did I say I had erratic piston ring tension with the rings I pulled out? I don't think I ever did because I didn't. (that sounds like I am mad, but I do not mean it to be. just trying to clarify)
All of the new style LDS piston rings seemed to have the same ring tension. It was less...
I looked in the manual for the break in for an engine with new pistons and sleeves. So i was just going by that. I think the manual states the whole test was something like 5 hours. I figure time in between doing things, set up and tear down of putting the truck on the dyno... it all takes time...
Thank you. I'm just doing my best over here. Trying to document everything as much as I can and follow the manual for all the specs. If I see something that might cause issues, then I try to go after it and fix it... hence the new turbo. The compressor wheel was shot and if its not putting out...
It takes a lot of time. It might be an 8 hour activity. I figure the truck will be running on the dyno for about 6 hours and at some point after the 15hp light load in the beginning, I'll want to retorque the head just because I can... and re-adjust the valves.
I got a quote for the rings and they were about $80 per cylinder for the "NOS LDS Piston Kits". Rings for a standard LDT multifuel are $10. This is why I was looking for good used LDT pistons. Anybody that has blowby and wants to rebuild theirs, I suggest looking at their pistons real good to...
This weekend I got the turbo on and related parts. Coolant is in, zip tied wires and made sure everything in secure. Also installed transmission tunnel from when I changed the clutch. Things are starting to come together. I think all that is left to do is change the fuel out to 100% diesel and...
Yea, so far so good. I put the same pistons back in after I honed the cylinders. If it was a glazing issue, that would have fixed it. If its a ring issue, then we will soon find out.
Like 74M35A2 said, Mainly waiting on the turbo. I still have to double check things underneath to make sure they are all tight, put the transmission tunnel back on (from doing the clutch), adjust the valves, put engine oil in it, install valve covers, turbo, related plumbing, buy a heater hose...
I have the manifolds on now and rocker arms bolted down. Before I put the turbo on, I checked the turbine shaft for looseness. Yup, she is loose. I can barely see a spot on the casting where it looks like the impeller has touched the housing. I'm wondering about putting a rebuild kit in it and...
Remember when we installed pistons? We installed #6 working toward #1 cylinder putting in last. It was #1 cylinder that we assembled the connecting rod on and was the last one for me to change over to the new piston.
No sir. This is a mistake and we have the correct ones. Very good catch but this was one my buddy Zach and I mounted up on my old piston. so what you see there is my old piston mounted on a connecting rod. This was changed and all of my pistons now are like the ones seen in the vise. Again...
Check the gauge by unplugging the one connector in the back. Use a jumper wire to ground the gauge and then use another jumper wire to apply the 24 volts to the electrical connection on the gauge itself. Sometimes the gauge might have a bad ground and that could cause an issue like you are...
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