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Got deep into it the past few days and swapped a C7 from this M1078A1R. The original engine was locked up tight with so few miles on it and no explanation of why after disassembly. I did the typical "pull injectors and fill with penetrating oil and time" trick, pulled ALL accessory drives from...
Contact the regional office located at the bottom of the GSA auction listing you won it from. They're the ones who process it and have the authority to correct it. Offices and territories vary.
That's an M52 tractor, and it's likely still the old Continental R6602 gasoline engine in it. No fender mounted air filter gives it away. It looks fairly clean though not really valuable as it's about as gluttonous as a HEMTT without the fun.
It happens 50% of the time when I buy through GSA. I know my local office well, which happens to be the regional process office, so I shoot off an email with the full correct details and they send me a new SF-97. There is no tracking, confirmation, or acknowledgement of the process..it just...
Don't get me too excited now.. I could UV dye it but either way I have to get into it. I'll check the injection system as well for timing. Do you have a link on how to do that by chance?
One aspect no one has mentioned about wearing a seat belt is about keeping your butt in the seat to try and maintain control of your MV. If you run off the road (pre/post incident), get struck, etc etc.. you will be tossed, jostled, pushed, and thrown around in the seat before the final stop. I...
Ditto. I let mine sit for a week without touching it if I can. Off Behr's website it says:
"...allow 12-16 hours of dry time between coats. Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may prolong drying time. After 4 weeks, cured paint film may be cleaned with a mild, non-abrasive liquid detergent. "
Everything is either a Jeep, HUMMER, or "Deuce & a Half" to most people. My HEMTT was called a Deuce & a Half a few times and I had to be gentle to the unknowing and inform them it used a deuce for a wheel chalk. rofl
Caught it before coolant mixed (at least visually). There's peculation in the coolant reservoir as well as black specs from exhaust particulate, white sweet smoke, and coolant is disappearing. I wanted a second opinion and had a mechanic friend look over it and he came to the same conclusion.
Some people wash it with a gallon of WD-40 before parade duty but doing this will complicate future plans for painting the truck. I say roll with it as-is. It looks clean.
I'll be doing headgaskets soon...:mad: 77 miles on the odometer on pick up (stamped 09' reset at 17 miles). Serviced all fluids, performed 500 mile break in procedure as mandated, blew a gasket at 812 miles. Starts instantly, runs like a champ, even with the issue but all signs say bad head...
Ronmar's videos are on point. Always replace the soft lines. I do them on Every. Single. Truck. If they don't look cracked it's just because you haven't seen the backside of them yet.
It covers reset A1 and later A1R trucks with the C7 engine, but for the record all A1 trucks have ABS and some later rebuild A1's (with the 3126) have remote start like the later models. That being said...PDM's 1-4 refer to the black modules in the dash labeled 1-4 "Power Distribution Modules"...
Having bought and moved many units from Hawaii...have it hauled home. If this is a true Hawaii stationed truck its been sitting a long time and will need a fair amount of work to make a 3000 mile trip. With diesel prices low right now you can save yourself a lot of headache and just get it home...
Yes on satin and gloss. Use the Behr Marquee or Ultra due to the higher UV resistance and stain resistance (bird poop and stuff). I always grind rough areas, rust primer spots as needed, power wash then degrease, and rinse again. Past that paint when the weather is nice and don't touch it for 72...
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