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What General said, have had issues with some over the years… you said you tried different versions of windows, did you try running any of them in compatibility mode with even earlier versions like windows XP?

Yep, flashing red is over-volt, solid red is locked out/disconnected due over-volt anything over 14.1/28.2 is not normal. This thing relies on proper connections to battery to operate correctly, which is why I mentioned a voltage drop test, which confirms this connection. You can achieve the...

Its a tire, not a pulverizer:)

There is already a filter at the tire side of the wheel valve(small fitting port)... you can't put a filter in just anywhere as it may effect the ability to close the wheel valves, as was the case in a recent problem discussion. After the valve(tire side, like shown) is OK, and on the supply...

Well if you are sure of your connections between alt and battery(voltage drop test pass), and your excite voltage(forward screw terminal on alternator) is above 21V, then that sounds like a regulator issue…

Ok, not a problem there, or even on the supply line to CTIS from the wet tank. that might slow the speed it can fill the tires though. You just cant put any restrictions between the wheel valves and where the PCU vents thru the floor, otherwise it might not stop dumping when it is commanded to…

Where/how exactly is this installed? Is that the fitting on the end of the stem feeding air into the wheel? If so that wont be an issue. There should already be a filter at the other end of that line where it attaches to the small port on the wheel valve. the issue, like the OPs problem...

1. Switches, we don’t need no stinking switches… Mechanical diesel, no hi/lo idle switch 2. First part sounds normal, and several pumps will deplete the air(don’t pump air brakes, press and hold). Could be the treadle valve is not fully sealing after pedal application. It vents air thru a...

Mechanical diesel, is the throttle linkage on top of the governor rotating fully so it is in contact with the low speed stop screw? A problem with the cable or pedal or return spring might be keeping it from setting against the low speed stop… 4 things make the master stop light come on, front...

Pretty sure it is the same primer. The only issue these usually have is the bypass flapper gets fouled and wont seal Enough to pull vacuum and lift fuel… it is easy enough to check and clean. I have a couple other fuel system videos on my utube channel…

Yep, a dot cert push-lock or back to back compression fittings should be acceptable. Although the line is not horrifically expensive, so replacement is probably not all that much more effort…

the dump valves do not feed back very much air toward the PCU. 99+% of the air coming from the tire/hub would exit thru the dump vent... I don't see that little bit of flow carrying much from dump to PCU... I don't think CTIS can work well with anything in the line as it would have to be able...

Wow, a syntered bronze filter... thats weird and should not be there. the only filter in ctis should be between the wheel valve and the tire. This system relies on proper flow to allow the pressure changes that control/close the wheel valves promptly... that filter should not be there or in...

Yea that brings up a point, if you had it in your primary filter and it was running rough, it obviously filled the secondary filter enough to reach the gallery. that could explain the dirty exhaust when you revved it up And pulled more fuel(and coolant) thru the second filter… the very least...

If you disconnect the line to that wheel AT the dump valve beside the transmission, you should be able to blow air into the tire thru the hoses and hub just like CTIS does using a blow gun. when you remove the blowgun the line should vent briefly as the pressure drop closes the wheel valve… if...

Or park the truck pointing uphill, let it set for a bit and use a siphon with a straw to vacuum the coolant off the bottom rear edge. Its a flat bottom tank, so you may get more of it out this way.

And if you had a cylinder or 2 that were misfiring, it may also have had buildup that will take a bit to burn of with normal combustion…

Well the engine isn’t really loaded, and it probably wasn’t up to full op temp right? The plumbing on the A0 keeps them from warming up properly until the transmission becomes a heat source as they send all the bypass coolant to the trans cooler instead of back thru the engine like cat designed...

Well you need to clear the tank as well. These things only burn a fraction of the fuel they move, so contaminants in the tank would pretty quickly re-circulate thru the system. This should show up as more coolant in the bowl…

Yes, antifreeze/coolant is not fuel, so you need to drain the tank and get the coolant out. water in diesels has a nasty habit of damaging components in the fuel system, even to the point of blowing the injector tips off when it flashes to steam in the hot injector nozzle/tip… hope this is not...