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The gauges are of a different manufacturer than the later multi fuel trucks too. I think Stewart Warner. Here is the only picture I have of mine here at work. 1953 REO.
Was the heater on high, lights on and wipers flapping? Even then it shouldn't drain the battery that fast. Check your batteries and have them load tested. Then go from there. You might have a bad alternator, but something else is going on as well.
LMC does have a listing for the tail gate seal under Blazer if you look at the page titled for removable top models. #11 on that page.
However, the best way to get the right part is to look in the TM ending with -20P or -34P. That gives you the exact GM part number for what you want. Then...
12.6 volts is what the battery should be at with the truck off. If you don't have that, you need to charge the battery before you do anything else. You should also load test the battery.
How long are you cranking the engine to get it to start? Something is pulling voltage from your battery...
That looks like fun.
You might get a better deal and better results from buying a complete center mount turbo engine/transmission assembly. There always seems to be a unit for sale either on this site or other online auction sites. Getting a complete engine assembly that is known to be good...
I was able to reserve spot #8 on my work computer just now. I wasn't able to do it on my ipad from home yesterday.
I'm taking the M715 camping this weekend with my Trail Life troop. The March camp out every year is the learn to drive a manual transmission event for the young guys. The M715...
I have the Compushift controller. It doesn't need a tach input to work but it does need one to show rpm on its display. I also have a Dakota Digital gauge cluster which does need a tach input. So, I have the TCM and the gauge cluster both getting the signal from the Dakota Digital converter...
I forgot about the oil pump drive way. I had one of those and tried it first. It leaked oil out of the plug housing when I test ran the engine. Then my serpentine belt drive vacuum pump froze up soon after. I went with a CUCV vacuum pump and promptly forgot all about the speed sensor back...
It is certainly evident who has made a 4L80E work in a truck it wasn't meant to and all we learned making it work. Neat to read about different ways to do the same thing too.
I was typing while you asked your question about the stock CUCV tach signal. It was for the STE/ICE diagnostic suit case they used back when the trucks were new. Think all analog OBDII with no real information from a 4 digit digital read out. I went to the trouble to find one that worked and...
As pointed out the CUCV alternators have a tachometer signal already. Some vacuum pumps generate a signal as well. But, that signal might or might not talk to your tachometer or TCM.
Your transmission control module should generate its own engine speed signal because it gets the input shaft...
So do you want to only have a single key or keep the double key thing? Pulling the lock cylinder from the column is easy but does require a few special tools that your local auto parts store will probably rent or loan.
Pull the cylinder and put in a stock keyed one and you are set. Or, pull...
2 weeks of research has taught me some things I didn't know before.
I have a 1985-1993 Delco glow plug controller on the truck. This is the one that is gray in color, has 4 leads and doesn't go into the cooling system. GM went to the black 3 pin controller when they went to the computer...
I saw on old documentary about the Market-Garden operation over the weekend. Sure were a lot of on fire gliders coming in to land. Once of fire, they sure burned fast.
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