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Often the driver side inner fender panel will touch/rattle on the frame near the rear corner of it. That can be very annoying. A little bending or rubber edging can eliminate that issue. I can't hear any squeal in the video.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162014-Pics-of-broken-transfer-case&highlight=low+range+lockout I did an advanced search in the 5 ton forum, for transfercase low lockout. Lots of threads listed.

There have been several threads on this. I'd try searching, Low Range lockout, Transfer case cracked, in the 5 ton forums.

Yup, and how to read part numbers to identify pto's is in the link I posted.

What truck?

Here is some basic info on PTOs. http://www.driveproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/TR-G94-01.pdf

In your first post, first sentence you said, That is a question that I can only interpret as, "is this an np205 transfercase". Yet, in your thread title you posted, This I would interpret as you have a question about an np205 power take off. Then you post, And in-fact, the correct PTO...

So. you only want expert opinions to reply, as opposed to novice opinions that you found when you searched? Nothing new has been developed in the battery world in the last week or so since the last "which battery is best" thread was started. If you like optima's, use them.

Definitely an a2. Would have been real nice for the op to get that right to start with, and or correct us on all the guessing.

Editing original post to correct model truck. Deleted all A3 comments. Your booster pump seal could be the problem. With the fdc bypassed it is unlikely to be your problem.

I'm confused, this is a trailer with a hard top, and posted in the Deuce modifications forum. What am I missing?

Are you going to dissect the old relay? It might be fun to see the inside.

If you replaced the cable yourself, did you route it correctly?

You are better off charging each battery separately with a 12v charger.

Maybe your states cab and chassis rules could apply to how you register it.

I thought Nashville was the birthplace of stock car racing. I would have guessed there would be engine builders at every street corner.

Search this site for PPV or pressure protection valve also. They freeze and cause the same issue. Have you serviced your air-drier lately?

From that picture, I can't tell if that is a transmission, transfercase or PTO.

Here's another possible option. http://www.mylampparts.com/Products/Brass-Reducing-Bushings-38-IPS-F-x-12-IPS-M__SL00442.aspx The outer thread pitch would be off by two, but being so short and brass I bet it would work ok. The inner thread pitch is correct. Not 100% sure on diameters, but...

If it were my project, I'd probably weld the hole closed and re-drill and tap it for the cheapest switch I could find (less than $10). But, you guys were looking for a switch for less than the ones advertised on ebay, that included a bushing to fit the existing hole. Or, I'd go the easy route...