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Had two questions in here…. Anyone know the answers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did that basically except I was not aligned and I use the hydraulic pump handle to spin a lug at a time, then on. Probably not as easy as what you did, but I will always have my pump handle with me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, I re-shimmed my other hot hub…. It was almost .030 too thick. Re-shimming should help a lot with hub temperatures! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I did my work indoors and my benches are 3 feet from the truck. Had to use the pipe handle to get the tire on. No room for a long shovel handle. I tried a short one, but that was no good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Confirmed I can still spin my locker from the tire by caging my brakes on one side and lifting only one wheel. Tire spins and so does pinion. Also, that confirms power divider is unlocked.

Got the new hose one. Drums, etc. with the tire on, I can still rotate the drums. Without the tire, I don’t have the leverage on the studs. Is that too tight? I kept right side with right side and left with left, so should be the same as it came off. Also could not fit the shovel in...

@Berend is the closest person I can think of. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, it looks like they compensated for the missing race by adding 0.020” extra shims in the other side!?!?!?! Hand slap face! [emoji2357] One more hub to check shims on, then letting it ride. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything looks good to me. The casting is machined smooth under the race. Everything seamed to go back together well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only way this would work is if you could disengage the splines on the inner beveled gear. That inner gear is stationary to the axle housing. You would have to have extended axle shafts so the whole spider assembly with inner and outer bevel gears would could travel in and out while either...

It just so happens, I have a box of spare parts. Luckily it was in there.

Went to re-shim one of my hot hubs and found out it was missing the thrust bearing race that goes against the hub cap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, front hubs are on. I did confirm that rotating the front right wheel forward rotates the left wheel backwards so open diff is where it should be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man I am tired. Open diff should spin the opposite tire the opposite direction. I will test the front once both hubs are on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thought about it more…. I think the locker must be the issue. Or my power divider is locked up with no air pressure. The second option I do not think is likely since if water got into my power divider through the plastic cap covering the air inlet, the system would have been “frozen” in the open...

Ok, back at it. I have the drive shaft from the transfer case to the intermediate axle removed. I wanted to put the axle shafts in temporarily, I got the rear ones in and one of the intermediate ones in. Tires are on the ground. In the final shaft, I thought I would just move the pinion to...

Well, I am tired, but I got one hub on and it was reshimmed. need to clean a few faces in the other side and the hub covers. Hope to have the front buttoned up tomorrow. Then starting in the rear two hot ones. will hopefully get the new hose in Monday and u joint as well.

and then I found this…… it looks like my oil leak was not a seal, but my vent hose maybe? Maybe both? Either way, driver side is stopped until Monday so I can get a hose made. that hub had noticeably less oil than the other.

Still missing my u-joint, but I did get my seals. Work is starting again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mail should be bringing me some parts tomorrow! Hope to start up again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk