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Hm. Interesting plan. Not one I generally recommend but interesting none the less. Going the hard wired route is the best option. Fewer things to cause trouble.

How much continuous load do you expect to put on the generator?

In addition to good info above, I strongly recommend having the generator load tested to verify you have a properly running machine.

One of the controllers for the other 80x machines may work to handle the warm-up/contactor closures/cooldown tasks. Alternatively you could use a basic PLC or microcontroller to sequence that stuff for you.

What you did was fine. The wipers on the pots are pretty much self cleaning when you move them.

Have you checked on the Inova controllers? They don't list the 807A specifically but it may work. Worth asking them at least.

You can get JIC to hose barb fittings on Amazon pretty cheap.

The best thing to do is pop the lines off the fuel pump and connect up with known good lines to see if it will move fuel. You should be able to test with your AUX fuel line. If the pump works solo you have a line blockage somewhere. Not real common but it does happen.

The unit would shut down if it had been running when the oil pressure switch tripped. If a unit starts with low oil pressure the governor never powers up and as such can't shut down the unit. The operator needs to be familiar with this failure mode and react accordingly.

That switch kills the governor to protect the engine.

I picked up a brand new 803 including the accessory crate. It contained ground rods and an AUX fuel hose but no fuel adapter kits. :(

New machines can be problematic if the people operating them don't understand the proper way to run one in. Another issue is the hour meters on these machines are generally meaningless.

I personally wouldn't use a 5w oil in these machines. I use 10w for winter and 15w for summer. Edit - In Florida you should be OK using a 15w year round.

This is going to sound a little crazy but here goes. If you are seriously considering putting traps or other emission controls on the exhaust this would be easier than that. Turbocharger. Install a turbo and set it to run a few pounds of boost. You'll reduce the smell by quite a lot. Stay...

I set mine to about 61.5hz with no load. Fully loaded that gives me just about 60hz.

I'll add that if you have a heatpump and you run it on generator in heating mode you'll need to install a "generator bypass" switch to disable the heat strips. If the unit goes into defrost mode and kicks on the heat strips it will trip out your generator.

I can report that I've tested a 802 at my home and it runs my 3T heatpump with no problems. The total running amps for the unit is around 16-17 amps (compressor and fans). Your mileage may vary.

I've been traveling so I've not been able to answer the question. Yea, something like a redhat solenoid valve with a 24v coil would work.

If you are going for an on/off valve you can choose a solenoid valve and wire it to the AUX fuel pump.

I'm going to cross reference the connectors to the MIL spec pinout diagrams at the link below. Hopefully they are there. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/wiringdevices/interconnect/Resources/Literature/Eaton_D38999_Series_III.pdf