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Well if it was OK before the IFS kit?… Is it possible to install the IFS backwards? Filters are typically designed for flow in one particular direction… Have you removed and inspected the IFS filter? You could probably remove the IFS filter and run it with just an empty filter housing to test...

Looks retracted/off to me. If you start the truck, and with the transmission in N, set the ex brake switch to the warmup position. That should apply air to the cylinder and extend the cylinder/engage the ex brake butterfly to load the engine and warm it up faster… you could also remove that...

Yes, Rotella T4 15W40 should be just fine.

Or was he referring to Rotella T4 15W40?

Now thats not fair, I am sure if it had landed right side up, it would have been just fine… These trucks were pretty significantly overbuilt. I have not heard of anyone bending one permanently in typical use. All the ones from auction seem straight enough, and that is where the trashed ones...

Besides being commonly available, another good thing about that series of alt is that they also have a remote sense input. This allows you to run a sense wire to the battery + terminal so the alt can adjust its output to deliver its rated voltage AT the batteries. Because of losses on heavily...

Nice, yep, the equalizer is only needed if you are drawing 12 out of the series wired 24v battery bank. if you use the vanner or bussman as a converter(or any other 24-12 converter for that matter), the batteries only ever see 24v in or out so will naturally find their own state of balance And...

Does your ex brake disengage when you step on tbe brake pedal?

Do you have it set on the right mode, 12v vis 12v agm or 12v lithium?

Correct, the solenoid valve power when in warmup comes from the neutral relay and only passes thru the switch. Contacts. If the ex brake light is coming on there is power on K16 pin4(87A on the drawing K16), as that is its source. The light power taps off before the warmup/ex brake switch...

Should be the de-energized relay contact, looks to be pin4 on that relay. It will be 24V. I have not seen an ex brake config setup to operate the brake lights before...

Are they dusty? Could be minerals fromthe dust crystalizing with condensed moisture… what voltage is the tender holding the batteries at? Wash them off with soap water and a brush and rinse them clean and see if it returns…

The ex brake light on the A1 receives the same power the ex brake solenoid valve does, so light on means brake engaged. Like I wrote above, That power originates at the ECU. and passes thru K16 contacts and also powers its coil. But it passes thru the de-energized contacts. So relay off = ex...

There are only 2 actuator part numbers in the 24P. One for front(no park springs) and one for rear(with park springs)…

Ok, I think I am tracking now, I couldn't see the rollers and lacked scale to see how large it was. the part on the left with the rollers is called the wedge assembly, broken and minus its spring. It rolls between two angled ramps(one seen as number 4) and force the shoes apart when the...

Mine had a crack in the filter bowl. Didn’t find it until I filled the system with fuel, capped the return line at the tank and applied 10PSI from a regulator at the fuel feed line at the tank. Let it set for a while and then found fuel weeping from the bowl below the seal. I replaced the...

Is that part in the left hand side from inside the old chamber? A new assembly should have had it Already installed, as Taking apart an air chamber assembly to install it can be dangerous(compressed spring), unless you are absolutely sure of what you are doing. There are no sub/internal parts...

No, you are…:)

What Ramdough said… If the CTIS plumbing is intact, you could do the same thing to the feedline (PCU output line to dump valves) behind the passenger dash where the PCU resides… Then you could do 4 at once. The regultor will probably limit flow, but it should be fire and forget. I would not...

Swap front and rear gauge locations/co nections and see if the problem moves...