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Whale...

Its your own dam fault… If you had stayed off the internet and done something productive, none of this would have happened…

A lurch is not unusual, especially on an A0 that may have been idling a little high… do you not drive automatics? Pretty standard to have your foot on the brake when you select D or R. What to look for? Hmmm… well the things I look for are the result of decades of learning. Since knowledge...

it just started? Is your front emer/red gladhand capped or frozen? The fronts must be vented. If they can trap air it will keep the park air applied to the spring chambers after you release park air at the control in the cab. If the blue service gets capped, it can cause the service brakes to...

On one of your pics, i circled what should be the outlet port on the hand pump and the filler port for the hand pump reservoir. You run a line from that outlet port on the pump to the port on the forward side at the bottom of the lift cylinder. I would set the valve selector to cab raise...

Oh, and thinking about it a little more, you don't need to add a filler line for the Air op pump Reservoir. Ideally you should rarely have to fill it. In the event you do though, you can use the hand pump to push fluid up to the AOP reservoir. Disconnect the two lines at the hand pump and...

If you plumb right from the hand pump output to the lift cylinder with another hose, and top off the hand pump reservoir(little allen head plug on the left front corner when facing the hand pump), The hand pump will put in all the fluid it needs to lift the cab with the lift cylinder. You do...

But why go to all that trouble and risk to mechanically lift the cab when you can connect one hose and pump the cab all the way up and over the balance point or high enough to put it on braces to safely work on the latch? Maybe I am missing something, but I am not following the reasoning with...

The cab weighs close to #1800. I would not try this unless I had a crane or large Aframe. It is way easier to install the temp hydraulic line between hand pump and cab cylinder. They used JIC-4 fittings on everything so if you dont want to pull of another hose like to the suspension...

Oh snap! Yep, the latch is Td off of the mainline on the lift side of the hydraulic system. The safety check in the bottom of the cab cylinder should have caught the cab when the hydraulic system opened… Very glad you are OK…

Well if the latch is disassembled, this is a piece of cake. disconnect a hose from somewhere else, and connect it from the hand pump outlet port directly to the lift port on the cab lift cylinder. Open the pump fill port and top off the hand pump reservoir and you can then pump the cab up...

I am planning on the same thing. 2 for truck service batteries and up to 6 more for house batteries(there is room for 8 group 31 batts in the box). I should add that the group 31s are not plug and play. The pockets in the box lid interfere with their placement due to battery height. I...

No, it wont be just fine. The use of 4EA 120AH batteries was gross milspec overkill that was poorly engineered/applied. It IS the main reason these trucks have so many alternator and battery issues! They only provided a 100A dual volt alt(basically two 50A alts) to feed that massive battery...

YOU MUST REPLACE THAT SUPPORT BRACKET! Every cracked case discussion I have heard of or participated in, that bracket being missing, loose or broken was involved. The compressor and the PS pump is a LOT of overhung weight on that aluminum timing case… as for warping it, tell them not to...

Some have had success getting it welded in place. you did replace the support bracket right? I would also suggest you get driveshafts balanced…

What Geopen said... i have lost count of how many I have run across with 5 solid/failed controllers...

Yep, been doing this for years now. The issue with a regulator can be flow. If you limit pressure differential you are going to significantly lengthen fill times. And as I mentioned a pressure switch needs a little delay to prevent triggering during normal fill cycles...

No the complexity isn’t really the issue, it is just that it is some work and another project for a feature I might only use a few times a year…

No real difference having it go to 85 vis 75. I don’t see a reason to sneak up on it, so why not have it go all the way? That bit is easy, using the wet tank switch to control the fill cycles, and measure the pressure switch between fill cycles during stable tire pressure.. The safety cutoffs...

The manual and schematics are an acquired skill, and can take some time to learn your way around. Because this is such a common issue, I drew up a simplified one page schematic of the A0 starter system. this may help you work your way thru the issue. Good Luck.