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They should be, they are standard automotive relays…

A single click when you push the button or multiple/pulsing clicks? If multiple/pulsing, what is the voltage at the power panel WHILE you are pushing the button. Pulsing relays is classic low voltage caused most likley by bad connections. Remember voltage isnt good untill it is good under...

Yes except you need to put a little bit of delay into the resonse. When you command a fill with full tanks, the PCU pressure momentarilly exceeds what I would call a max allowable tire pressure alarm point(spikes over 100PSI). The periods where the PCU exceeds where I would like my alarm set...

I think the pressure increase with overspeed is mentioned in the A0 op manual. Yea fixed switches on a manual control is not a good idea. These vehicles ride on some very large air filled bombs. I have always reccomended and demonstrated momentary switches for controlling supply. You would...

Well the pics were initially posted by Spanky Bear I just screenshot them for future reference:) On the A1, With the exception of K1 and K2, which are the large 24V bolt-in ignition relays under the power panel, the A1 with the circuit board power panel actually uses 12v coil relays for all...

Brush and commutator could be dirty/full of crap and shorting/not flowing full current to the proper windings in sequence. When that happens you loose torque. Same issue can occur with the solenoid contacts, or the conductor pathways to the starter Are limiting current. You checked voltage...

Just 3 get a bigger hammer:)

Ooh ooh ooh, remember when I said i had not found a air compressor switch with the right contact polarity? While looking for something else, I stumbled across this AC&R low pressure cutout switch. Unless it is a typo, It opens at 90PSI and closes at 120 which would be the correct orientation...

Those standard auto size relays are 20-30A typically.

You only need 2 types. 5 pins can be used everywhere, so you only need to stock 5 pin relays in 12 and 24v coils...

That sw wont work... the sw used closes at 117 and doesnt open again until 89. The controller uses this 30 psi dead-band/span info to control its filling cycles, so any old pressure sw wont work... You can get close with a 90-120 psi compressor control sw($20-30), which is a common enough part...

The shock IS the limit stop as it is in many suspension systems…

Wow! So used to NOT seeing it I scanned right past it, feels like its going to be another monday:)

Short or a very loose/intermittent connection that is cooking off trying to feed its normal current. Read the codes on the trans, you probably have a low voltage fault stored. Then you need to look back along that trans power pathway… most of the connections are plug in or spade terminals, but...

The killer on the dual volt alternator output capacity is that half of its amp capacity is delivered at 12V, so with 12v loaded to capacity, overall alt output is cut by 1/3 over that of a straight 100A@24V alt(1930W vs 2800W). For a straight 24V alt, 100A is probably plenty, even for 4 6T...

Or that one time I over pre-loaded a front spindle nut and fusion welded the hub to the bearings and the bearings to the spindle…:)

The vampire load on the A0 is from the transmission. You can pull CB22 to remove that current draw...

Multi-Clicking relays/solenoids is classic bad connection. A weak connection will pass full voltage untill you try and pull current thru it. Most likley spots as mentioned are the polarity box and shunt behind cab between airfilter and spare, as those are out in the weather... The main...

Between axle and frame? Those should be the same as the brake lines.

Have you gone thru the Neihoff manual troubleshooting steps? There is a procedure in there to determine if it is an alternator or regulator. As mentioned you need 24v on the ENG terminal on the voltage regulator, thats the forward screw terminal on the reg, to turn on the alternator. That...