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I’m thinking about putting a set on my M1008A1. It doesn’t see the speed and long trips that my vehicles with Michelin’s do. Post a pic when you get them mounted.

17 seconds seems like a very long wait light time. When really cold outside, mine is on for about 10 seconds. Starts right up. Warmer it is, the shorter the wait time. -6* was coldest start to date and wait light wasn’t on for more than 10 seconds. Again, cranked right up. Still...

Rolling over something is completely different that hitting something with a sidewall. I have had the BFGs A/T and was a great tire. Been running Michelin’s now for years. Never an issue Hit a piece of steel on sidewall (driving slower than walking pace) that I could have rolled over...

Croft Trailer has adapters that fit inside the ring. For either a 2” or 2 1/2” ball That would give you some extra length. If you need ring as is and just longer, then the above info is worthless. I have seen longer ones on eBay. Do not know if they would fit the surge assembly or not...

Like mentioned, I would try the car wash first. Access to sandblaster is difficult for most of us. Pressure wash should work. Seems like the longer the paint has been on tire, the harder it is to remove. At least it was painted on tire instead of trailer. Getting it off of CARC is painful.

The LEDs are getting much much better. Agree about the flashlights. My older LED Surefire flashlights aren’t as bright as my newer ones.

My last post wasn’t meant for you specifically. Just general info for anyone who is thinking about a set. Truck-Lites are made in USA. Not sure about Grote. All others, as you mentioned, made in China.

LEDs are not known for throwing a lot of light downrange. Very bright in close but drops off rapidly the further out it goes. (Like any light, but more pronounced with LEDs). Definitely getting better but not there yet. The current aviation LED searchlights are crazy expensive and suck to put...

If it is a GP controller card, new improved ones are available from SS member AntennaClimber. Always a good idea to have a spare card handy.

Common problem for those jacks. Fixable, but a PITA. A lot of guys ditch that jack and go with a side mount M1101/2 style 5k jack. Still grease-able and a lot stronger internals. I don’t own your style jack and the above info is what I’ve read in older threads. My trailers have the...

It’s part of the Dismal Tide. It will only get worse.

If he doesn’t I would be surprised. That guy seems to have multiples of every part made for CUCVs Definitely has helped me a lot!

If it is a bearing, I would go ahead and replace them all and all seals also. While more initial effort and expense, it will be better than doing it again and again when they fail one at time.

Did it fail or was it missing?

Triangle Springs are excellent quality. They are also a ISO certified company. Where did you get your springs?

Most guys here go with the ACDELCO 60Gs. Self limiting and a very good and reliable plug. Glow plugs are very easy to change. I don’t know what the ohms should be for that specific plug. Never considered Bosch plugs. Is your system stock or modified?

27450C I believe. I posted a thread about installing a set.

You get what you pay for. My Truck-Lites have been flawless.

The new relay completely solved the problem. Truck starts as great as it did before. It’s also a LOT easier to change than the ignition switch on top of steering column.

Checked coil today with Fluke Digital Multimeter. Coil failed Open circuit zero ohm reading.