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Finally got my Supercharged P400/765R4/241 drivetrain finished and ready to swap into my M1028. Now if I could just find the time………

The OEM oil cooler is housed in the passenger side of the OEM radiator, so in order to "replace" it you would have to replace the entire radiator. I believe what you may be thinking of is to add an auxiliary oil cooler to work in conjunction with the OEM cooler. There are many threads on SS...

I just now looked at the Ebay ad for that compressor 24v version of this with harness and saw that at 24V the compressor requires 2600W of power to provide 850W of cooling. I'm no electrical engineer so maybe somebody will chime in with how this can be provided by two 100-amp alternators...

The only things on the CUCV's that are 24V are the starter and the slave port in the grille. Everything else is 12V. You can pull 24V for your compressor off the 24V Buss located just behind the rear battery above where the VA plate attaches. Not sure how much draw the compressor will...

Rick you may already know that U-joints need to articulate in order to properly lubricate themselves. The more articulation the better to keep the internal needle bearings rolling. I keep telling you to forget the driveshaft angle and focus instead on bringing the DRIVETRAIN angle and AXLE...

See attached -

Rick the main thing you want to try to do is to keep the output shaft from the transfer case and the pinion input on the axle parallel to each other, or at least within 2 degrees of each other. That in itself will tell you what degree of shims will be needed on the axle. It has nothing to do...

Due to the arrogant tone of your posts, I regret ever attempting to assist you on this thread. For many years I have contributed to the knowledge base of this site and freely shared my experiences of restoring & rebuilding my M1028 with the other SS members. But now, I am through. I will not...

Can he Google that o_O?

McMaster Carr - Google it.

The A/C system is by Vintage Air. But you will need to figure out how to mount the compressor onto your engine. You can read my write-up here - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/kinda-got-carried-away-m1028-rebuild.54469/post-2224882

765R4 from Bowtie Overdrives in California Bowtie Overdrives - View Item

I've got one practically brand new if you want it. I'm not going to need it with my new 765R4. Pm me if interested.

You might find my experiences enlightening - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/kinda-got-carried-away-m1028-rebuild.54469/post-2224882

I'll answer that question. First, I climb into my cab. Then I insert my key, and after the glow-plug warm-up period, turn that sucker clockwise until the thing cranks. Then I pull down on the shift lever to "D" and press the accelerator pedal, and Bingo! - my engine moves forward!

Hey guys, GM issued a Service Bulletin in 1988 to remove the rear proportioning valve. I removed mine when I installed rear disc brakes and raised the truck 5". Now my rear brakes work together with the front brakes perfectly. You can see the Service Bulletin here - 88-320-5 Chevrolet...

Well, I happen to like to tack on more stuff and add a bunch of clutter :ROFLMAO:

Why not leave the OEM cluster alone and simply add the other gauges as stand-alone instruments in a separate under-dash or on-dash cluster? Much more simpler and cheaper. And then you would have gauges AND idiot lights. That's what I did and I wouldn't have it any other way. Just...

Yes the front fenders have been widened on front & back. I'll post photos soon in my build thread.

One inch forward with Zero Rates.