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Actually not exactly the same, if you look you can see a 3/8" bolt in the block behind the harmonic balancer, that threaded hole in the block intersects the push rod bore, on all the GM gassers you simply remove that short bolt and install a longer one and carefully snug it against the pump rod...

This is basically what you will be faced with, despite being a gasser the design is exactly the same.

Be very careful that you have the fuel pump rod fully seated in the block before installing the new pump or you will break the pump rod. I pull the small plate that is behind the pump held on with 2, 1/4" screws, then grease the rod with thick axle grease and re-install the rod, the plate and...

Welcome to the SS forums!!!

As far as the way the brakes are set up you have a perfect example on the other side of the truck. All power steering return hoses should be replaced with power steering return hose

Welcome to the SS forums!!! Probably a rebuilt engine, does it say Melton on the valve cover?

Welcome to the SS forums!!!

I would highly suspect at least one of the condenser motors is stuck or "tight" pulling too many amps and tripping the 30A breaker in the battery box that feeds wire #720A, that breaker powers the rear evap and the rear condenser fan motors. I would begin by unplugging one of the rear condenser...

Holy Moly, both the factory and I have been doing it wrong all these years :) You need to strip any oils off of the head and valve cover mating surface, wiping them is not enough.

If you let the magic smoke out it will not be hard to find the problem, likely a FET or two with big holes it them, that is a really old box so its time was due.

If in fact you have to have three locations then you are sunk, there is only one place on a HMMWV that has the serial number and that is the data plate. Maybe the folks you are talking to are just ignorant. Hopefully someone from NE will chime in here.

There are two on the outside of the battery box (between the battery box and the frame rail) one positive and one negative, not on the frame rail. The bolt that carries the negative from the shunt to the neg cable through the wall of the battery box seems to give allot of folks trouble.

Considering you have tried known working PCB boxes then the glow plugs could be bad, that would cause the wait light to only flash on a smart start box, ohm each one out, they should be around 2 ohms, if bad they will be way off of that. Have you checked ALL the battery cables pos and neg? there...

You need to carefully jump the solenoid wire (#74) to 24V, you may have a bad starter. The wires that go to S and T on the diag port are in a harness that is completely separate from the engine harness so it is less likely you have a fault on both harnesses. The start/run/glow plug circuits go...

The engine serial number never had anything to do with the vehicle serial number (VIN) on any HMMWV There is also no frame number, the only serial number is on the data plate

If you a If you're asking if it is normal to have play in the pinion (input) shaft to the differential the answer is no, those bearings are supposed to have a preload, read they should be tight.

I have not read every word but wonder if you have installed the missing CDR valve, if not you have a direct opening into the intake, one little piece of trash in that hole and the engine is toast.

You can post here in the classifieds, you must be a supporting member $15 a year well spent!!

I looked at one in the shop and it turns smoothly and continuously, in fact it has to as the rest of the ass turns while the little hub on the front is stationary.

He actually has the base in place for the R-422A/VRC receiver which would make it an AN/VRC-47