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Had another decent day today so I went back to the generator. Unbolted the current transformer from the back of the housing and disconnected primary leads from the terminal board and cleaned them, tidied up the primary windings with a couple of zip ties, then pulled the terminal board TB3 out...

I tend to agree, those relays are actually very stable in their sockets as is. The only situation I could think of where they might need securing is a trailer mounted unit running on miles of hard packed washboard roads....something that is unlikely in 99.9 cases. There is not enough vibration...

Pics indicating the point of the leak will be very helpful in diagnosing and resolving your issue.

Thanks....a very clear answer to my question.[thumbzup]

FU1, on the left/back of the compartment with operators panel open. Respectfully, RTFMs :mrgreen:

I agree 100% ! Matter of fact, now that it has been brought out, I may modify my two with breakers and elimnate the fuse issue altogether. Curious Guyfang, was there ever a "spares" package issued with any of these sets?

Well, now that I've quoted it, it stays! :beer: This and another post made responding to my picture of the small dremel wire brushes I bought the other day has made me reconsider using them as they are conductive and it was pointed out to me that they could break off the brush and "migrate" to...

Light, some 1/2 or 3/4 inch split loom would tidy up those wires nicely and give some protection.

Maybe its just me, but a disposable piece like a fuse is hardly something I would spend any extra time or effort chasing down. There are dozens of fuses that can replace it and function as they should and they are available just about everywhere. :shrugs:

A 30 amp 125v Buss fuse is about as common as they get. There is nothing special about that fuse. Go to any hardware store, automotive store, department store, well stocked garage, radio shack or shop, and buy a pack of five for a couple of bucks.

Very good point! I will do that.

Good deal. It is however made of aluminum and now that its outside the door its exposed more to the weather, A coat of clear enamel might help preserve the surface. The writing is small and the detail is fine. It couldn't hurt to coat it. I've used clear enamel on aluminum antennas and it helped...

Stopped by my local Harbor Freight store to pick up a few things including zip ties for the harness and found these (stainless) for cleaning up terminals and terminal boards along with electronic parts spray cleaner. They fit the dremel tool extension ( like a dentists drill)and should make it...

Nice job!! Have you thought of coating the schematic with something that might protect it from fading/weathering? Something with UV resistance?

Ok will do. Thanks!

Well, spent a little more time on the 803 today, checking and cleaning connections and checking wire numbers. Breezy and cold but sunny.(good lighting) I pulled connections at J5-P5, J6-P6 and J7-P7 apart and found some corrosion in J7-P7.( see pic) Cleaned them up with cleaner and small...

I agree with you on the strong cleaning action of ATF. Thats why I keep my mix ratio in my bulk tank down to less than two quarts per 300 gallons of diesel. It is not a good preservative oil, much too thin.

WMO is also loaded with other fine particulate matter unless its properly filtered. I think there would be a quickly reached point of diminished returns having to spin and filter it and it would be cheaper to just use straight SAE30 with a viscosity enhancer if necessary. IMHO, waste oil is...

Try zip tieing a piece or two of that black split foam rubber pipe insulation on them to dampen the vibration. I find the caninet door hold opens on the 803a to be a real nuisance noise.

Not me, I run farm diesel that I add 1 qt of atf and one jug of this to the bulk tank upon fill up then circulate it with the nozzle in the fill opening for a few minutes. My bulk tank is 300gal for my tractor and generators.