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Don't overlook that both batteries should ideally have come off the production line one after the other. In other words, never replace just one in a dual (or more) battery application.

Ideally you should charge with only a few amps for a couple of days, then up the amperage. Of course, most smart chargers/maintainers won't activate when the voltage is too low, but can be tricked into charging by hooking up a good battery in parallel for 15-20 minutes.

Hmm. The compressor is direct driven and always runs when the engine is. Or should. Either way, nothing you did with the wiring could impact the function of the compressor. I'd guess that the compressor does pump air, but it doesn't get to the tanks anymore. Is the regulator flowing air?

Speaking of LEDs. In the past couple of days I've been working on getting the lighting functional on the FLUs. One had a dim work light, turned out to be resistance in the head/work light switch. But the first one I bought had nothing...other than power to the work lights. Disgusting, really...

Well, apparently there is. Even Amazon has them, $8.69 for a 10-pack.

If memory serves me, that bulb was used in typical aftermarket VDO gauges.

I wouldn't be surprised if you could buy them on Amazon. And speaking of surprised. Today I took another stab at figuring out why the Winter SEE hasn't started for well over a year...as in won't even make a click when hitting the starter button. Had already verified that it most likely was an...

Haven't used a FLU for real work for a while, which is why I've been quiet. Anyway, those rippers are great, I think. In my case it's when digging horse graves and getting into the river rock. Without, the bucket teeth would just slide off the larger rocks and making me think I'd be better off...

Been meaning to find out where/why the pump on the M1008 is leaking (other than because the vent line is plugged) for years. How close to done am I? After all, they say that the first step is to admit that you have a problem. No idea who said that.

When first getting the FLU HME it was smoking badly. Did a fair amount of research and settled on Liqui Moly . Not that I can say what actually fixed the problem, but it went away.

Retard it a bit?

Good point. I couldn't resist buying it once I found out about them, basically to complete the collection. There might be another one in Kansas or Missouri, but I haven't been able to verify that. The hydrostatic drive intrigues me and I wish I could hang on to the dozer blade. Used that on a...

I have considered listing the HME there, if for no other reason because some of the Burning Man crowd might see it. After all, it's one of the few stock vehicles that would look right in place there.

Your issue sounds a bit different than mine. For one, I haven't seen any sign of corrosion yet. Well, I can only see so much of the spool with the linkage still attached. Can't remember how far I pulled it out when the linkage was disconnected. Also, in my case the lever moves freely until...

I need to dig into the valve for the left outrigger, again. Once the fluid is warm that one will go down, but not back up again until everything has cooled off. The first time I found some debris in the bottom "cup" and thought that was the problem. Last time things looked clean, and I suspect...

I'm impressed that mine (all four FLUs) generally fire right up, even after sitting for six months or so. But before fixing the fuel line leaks on the one with bacteria and other issues, I did have to use the pump on that one, more than once.

It's an OM352. Should be lots of photos on the interwebs.

I would either put a lock on that lever, or remove it altogether. People aren't as satisfied with just looking at things like they used to be.

Generally, the stuff you really need or want shows up much later than the unimportant stuff. I'm just surprised that you seem to value a watch over a FLU. Especially on this site you may want to watch posting comments like that.

There will be some oil in the air, coming from the compressor.