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Thanks for info! We dont have this chemical for sale here but if needed, i can buy it from your side and ship here. England is not far from Estonia :) Yes, my next step is to remove inlet cap and clean or replace screen. When cap is off, probably i see, is there further contamination, past...

This slot can be welded full and new, correct slot milled. Unfortunately crank must be removed from engine.

I agree, they must be technically in order, exterior doesnt matter too much :) What is difference between "normal" and high altitude pump versions? Different fuel/air settings? If yes, can i change those settings myself?

I have H4 headlights on both my cucv´s - they are good. Not as bright as LEDs of course but way better than original (sealed?) ones. They sell those in Amazon, cheap too.

Thanks Keith! Seems that my problem is in inlet side. I took intake off yesterday and got clearance to screw fuel inlet connection off. It was full of white crystallized crap. Hard too, removed with drill bit. So next step is to remove inlet cap, i am sure screen/filter inside there is full of...

This is right place. I´d clear it good before with wirebrush too.

This should help you: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-electrical-ground-locations.120289/

Other question - does this diode needed? Water in fuel diode: https://radionerds.com/images/b/b4/SS_water_in_fuel_diode.jpg Also - if anybody have advices about post #36....

OK, another day, another bad news. Changed fuel shutoff solenoid with known working one, installed electric lift pump. No fuel in IP bowl or in return line. To the IP fuel is comingwith good pressure. So - IP is seized internally? What i can do more, before to start removing IP? aua I poured IP...

Check u-joints on driveshafts.

Should be pretty easy job. And cores are available from rockauto:

You must find cluster, where 4 small pods are: 4x4 light; oil/temp light; gen1; gen2; Like this: https://eu-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ytimg.com%2Fvi%2FP7QtCEFXKSg%2Fmaxresdefault.jpg&sp=1629654710T6257ec194ee9c7c83ce88d7afc3fb7b7d1e869529ff3e6a54b0ec3258bbaa3be...

Ahh, great! :) I probably can locate Subu/Tahoe tank here locally. As i remember, my ´98 Tahoe has metal tank. Still better than this original small one. And i dont like to keep spare tire down there anyway. Thanks! Might slightly help with weight balance too.

Another day.... Tank is not bad at all. I found one bigger hole (was plugged with epoxy) and some smaller pinholes. Inside is descent, when i remove this surface rust. Even sock is pretty clean. Seems that our army always used clean diesel :) Before i start welding tank - it is damn small...

Well, 1009 is not fast car even with 31" tires. You have to get used to it. On the other side, 3.08 allows you to drive on freeway with pretty descent speed.

Thanks! Today was slightly better day so i installed sliding window. Took about 20 minutes, i still got it :D

I started to think (strange, i know) - i ordered electric lift pump for 6.5 engine. Is it OK or maybe too high psi? Otherwise nothing new, rains every day, only managed to fix front lights grounds, replaced all outside bulbs and found that hi-low beam switch probably is shot. No hi-beams...

Trying to correct wiring as i wait electric 6.5 pump. Found GP card and oher more - what it is? Edit: got it - diagnostic port wiring. Will be gently removed.

Mike, i think there is my problem - took cover off, bowl was full of fresh fuel. Solenoid clicked, moved - i just cant see there, what it moves. Yes, i looked manual and know that it opens/closes metering valve. Anyway, cleaned everything, put cover back and same thing - nothing. Today is late...

You are right. But in current time this strange GP wiring is working. I just want to start engine, then it is "back to original" wiring time. Also i have power to fat IP wire, jumped also power to thinner green wire. I search, maybe i find here locally electric fuel pump - 6.5D or something...