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The 146 trailer seems similar weight ~7k lbs as the m934 box, and a couple feet longer.. How feasible would it be to relocate the exhaust and spare tire carrier and bolt up the 146box minus the trailer frame/running gear to an m934 which already has the extra long wheelbase... Might extend...

Well..old power steering pump ate a bolt and tossed the other bolts... Got a replacement.. This one has no assist at idle... And has the lines BURNING hot .... Ideas? Possivly not the pump or did i get a dud? I loctited the bolts in.. So if its the pump.. Im gonna be pissed.

OK, I picked it up, and noticed a vibration at all RPMs, suspected the harmonic balancer, so I checked, and sho nuff, it was wobbly.. Replaced it, and the vibration went away... for a bit... I now have probably 200 miles on the replacement balancer. Now, at idle, in anything BUT park, and NOT...

Looking at replacing with rubberized line... Diesel rated.. From tank to filter, and filter to IP The lines I'm looking at are gates 27006 which is rated at 35 psi and 10in/hg for vacuum and 1/2" Couldn't find any spec on vacuum and didn't want to buy line just to find out it'll collapse...

I've gone over what seems like 500 threads on fuel filter spin on mods... A bunch of people selling stuff... But no real data. M934, nhc250... I need to know the thread size of the supply (input) line into the filter housing as well as the input to the IP. Any help would be appreciated...

I'll be going from Fayetteville, NC to Seattle, WA, through West Virginia, in an M934. Everything checks out, but it'll be a fun trip. Couple things. 1. I'm offering a FREE 'taxi' service, from NC to Seattle, if you're along my proposed route. If you need anything shipped/transported from...

Gonna be picking up my first 5 ton in about a week.. I'll be the first to admit I have a LOT to learn..... and would like some assistance changing fluids, pointing things out, and going over it with me before I drive it away. I'm not too familiar with them but looking to learn. I bought it...

So, here's the issue. .mil spec says 75/90.. BUT.... Everything I've been reading about 14 bolt 4.56 rears suggests I should be running 75/140 instead. Is it a supply issue? Ie the .mil said 75/90 was 'good enough' since it works on most of their vehicles? Got an M1010, which is hauling a...

Ok...need some insight here and confirmation that I'm not just being super picky. Bought an M1010....wouldn't start...replaced lift pump and added electrical pump... still no joy....cracked injectora..nada.. Took it to a shop..said theyd charge a couple hours labor for diagnostics....They call...

Rear heater in M1010 isn't working... Previous agency (SO) ran a new wire to the pump....and the pump works....I can hear it clunk.. The drain at the rear..when opened..dribbles out at a decent pace....more of a surge than dribbles but hard to explain... Hold start position. ... fan...

I got an M1010, wanted to get air horns but figured if I'm getting a tank, I might as well use it for onboard systems, including airing up tires, air tools, etc.. Wanna keep some common air tools so I can do work in the field kind of stuff... Any suggestions on how much I'd need for rare/random...

I was planning on using it for my M1010, which is going to be a weekend vehicle/camping rig anyway, so I can surely justify it as a 'display' vehicle when I'm camping... Cheap tabs, don't need to be renewed, no front plate requirement... All huge bonuses.. Not gonna be used as a daily...

Pulled up the TM.. located the fuel lines...but without getting under there and tracing all the lines, I can't tell what line is return and which one is outbound. Any tricks or tips? I'm gonna be putting in an electric pump..and the spot where there is about 8" of 3/8 flex line about 3' from...

Got a M1010 with 18K on it from auction, it was driven in but had been sitting for 6+ years....Had about 3/4 tank, I checked the fuel.. No water, looked good, smelled good.. then I dumped another 6 or 7 gallons in to fill it up, then added some misc additives.....cranked it over.. it wanted to...

I'm thinking of custom making either OD, or NATO camo see through window decals, like used on the back of truck windows, for the rear and side windows... It'd basically continue the NATO camo (or solid OD) to make it look like one piece, Ie you won't really see the windows... Thoughts?

Just saying.. :-p Lots of overspray...... I'll need to repaint the areas and start over in a couple of months when it warms up. I made a custom RF radiation stencil that looks better than I thought it would.. I have it on the back, and by each antenna mount (pass/driver). Pardon the rainy...

So.... I'm in parking lot.. Driving down the 'main drag', well defined, concrete curbs, etc. You get the idea... When this 16 y/o chick decides that her burrito is more important than the road, and she pulls out of a taco bell, right into the corner of my truck... I don't have time to stop...

So, I noticed on my tailgate that I have black spots that look like oil stains, but smell like fuel.. They won't come off.. I also noticed my back window pretty caked with soot, although there is no excess smoke while driving, just a small puff of black smoke when starting... In addition, on...

I was reviewing the diagram of the parking/turn lamps, and it seems that the park lamps should be steady, even if the turn signal is on. However, on my m1009, my corner marking lamps alternate with the front turn signal when the parking lamps are on. I haven't seen any abnormal splices, but my...

Drums I can get for about 10$ a piece, filters and piping are also cheap. I'd have to figure out a way to use couplings to get one pump to connect to each stage, but shouldn't be too hard. The filters are designed for thousands of gallons of fuel... so they wouldn't have to be changed...