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That looks a lot like liner cavitation to me. It's caused by incorrect coolant chemistry. Once it eats through into the cylinder from the coolant side, it leaks coolant into the cylinder and / or oil pan depending on where the piston is in relation to the leak. It also interferes with the liner...

It could be a boost leak. It won't build enough boost revving it out of gear in order to show up. Check the rubber hose of the cross over tube after the turbo, and make sure the clamps are tight.

I do some volunteer work with a Christian camp near where I live, and they have asked me to assist with getting their backup generator operational. It is an MEP-006A unit, obtained through a FEMA grant. They had it installed a few years ago and the power company connected it by a manual transfer...

I have never replaced mine. I was just trying to help out Ford Mechanic. The part number for the stainless bolts is 3929537.

The ones on my engine are marked 8.8. With that being said, the Cummins part number listed for them is obsolete and they were replaced by a stainless bolt of the same size.

When the shutterstat is closed, the input hole is closed off but the output vents to the atmosphere so the fan clutch will release. If you plumb the hoses backwards, it will leak air constantly when it is closed, and it won't release the fan clutch properly after it actuates.

This means you need to have the #1 and #6 cylinders of the engine at top dead center (does not matter compression stroke vs. overlap) when you install the compressor with the marks lined up as WillWagner said. You can use a barring device and rotate the engine until the timing pin (behind the...

It's been a while since I posted anything so I thought I'd share a few updates. I got uncomfortable with the tires last Fall when I found some dry rot cracking near the edges of the tread, so this Spring I changed the tires out for Michelin 395's that I had (on MRAP wheels). Of course that...

I don't know if my truck (1990 BMY M923A2) has something different about its tank than yours, but when I had it off the truck last weekend I could not see any baffles in it. There did not appear to be any coating (intentional or otherwise) on the inside, either. The drain boss on the bottom...

I just did it over the last few weeks. 395/85R20's removed from MRAP wheels replaced the 14R20's that were on it. I did it one at a time with basic tools and the 1 inch impact wrench I ended up getting when my 1/2 inch would not budge the wheel half nuts. It took forever but was not really all...

Here's where I tapped into mine. I drilled a 1/8" NPT hole into the plug while it was out on the workbench, and then reinstalled into the engine. It was easier than making a mount for the gage!

Tonight I did more troubleshooting on my truck and confirmed that the 3 wire sensor is indeed the CTIS pressure switch. Apparently some trucks have 2 wire sensors and some have 3. The Dana .pdf I was looking at last night didn't have any troubleshooting information in it, but I found one today...

Thanks, guys. I'll try jumping the A and B terminals tonight and hopefully report back with success.

Ok thanks MtnSnow, that is the one I took the connector off of thinking it was the one. I also took it out of the air line and confirmed it wasn't packed full of crud, hence the new PTFE tape on the threads. Like I said though, mine has 3 wires in it instead of 2 like the parts diagram and...

I've had a CTIS problem pop up on my truck recently. The best I can tell from following the troubleshooting guide in the TM, reading every thread I can find, and using the Spicer pdf file, it's not getting the signal from the pressure switch that tells the system it has 120 psi. I've found the...

Mine also had some brackets bolted behind the front mounts on the box that guided the front of the box back down squarely when the frame flexed. They would hit the mounts on the frame rails if you did not remove them. I've seen multiple threads where the boxes were removed by sliding them...

Check to make sure you don't have your ground and high beam wire locations flipped. I used a diagram I found online and it was backwards. It sent the current through both filaments on the low beam setting and was very dim. Yours may already be fine, but it is something fairly easy to check.

Has anyone else had trouble with the alternate shutterstats identified in this and other threads? As best I can tell, there are 2 options in the market, the original Evans unit that is supposed to be failure prone, and the Medallion brand ones that are available through various retailers...

Thanks! That's my volt meter for checking the status of the 'house' battery. It's just a cheap China made piece so it's lower than my good meter's reading by about 0.2 volts, but it's a pretty constant offset so it's still useful. I think it may even be adjustable but I've just learned to...

Thanks! The floor covering is just peel and stick Armstrong brand floor tile from Lowes. They were cheap and give me the ability to replace them when one gets damaged. I've already had to exercise that option once after a sharp corner on my tool box cut one. [thumbzup]