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It’s only dependable after massive amounts of predictive maintenance and upgrades. If you don’t need the all terrain capabilities, these are a horrible choice for a work truck.
You have a 24 volt jump pack? If you used a 12 volt jump pack that will not do much.
Can you ask (PM) moderators (Guyfang) to move this thread to the FMTV forum so the usual experts will see it.
Any crunchy wiring needs to be replaced les you have a fire. Suggest you cost out the OEM harnesses vs making an entirely new 12 volt harness either yourself or by a pro.
What voltage did you apply to which solenoid, the 12 or 24 volt one? Is the battery connection correct? GP and the Army for that matter likely could have gotten it wrong.
You might have damaged something. But guess what you came to the right place for diagnostic support on these. Need to know if you have your batteries connected properly to begin with. You are aware the truck has a combo 12 & 24 volt system right?
I would verify the wire tag numbers are correct, meaning the ground wire is actually the ground wire. If everything is correct then your bulb is defective.
Typically what causes this is loss of parallelism between gears, then a sideways thrust is applied to the gear which overcomes the detent ball in the shift rail. The issue is caused by one of the gears carrier shaft bearings failing. Well you know why.
Hmm, if you don’t want to take on this project, maybe the answer is to sell it to someone who does want to take it on. Looks like a very easy project compared to others I have seen and started with.
Engine block might still be ok. Pull it and tear it down looking closely for cracks. I rebuilt a GMC 302 that threw a rod, block skirt has a booboo where the rod end whacked it but otherwise it runs great.